Greenbushes Loop
Greenbushes
Directions - Located between Balingup and Bridgetown along South Western Highway, take the Blackwood Road turn off the highway, following the signs for Greenbushes. The trail starts from the information board in front of Heritage Park, opposite the Greenbushes Discovery Centre.
The Hike - The Greenbushes Loop was the first South West trail I ever did for the website as part of a June 2015 road trip visiting Quinninup and then Albany, way back when things were very different to how they are now (long term TLoP readers will remember the black background days). This was a post I had always meant to revisit as my first hike here was shot on my Sony Xperia phone as I didn't think I had packed my DSLR (I had and it was in the boot the whole time). As such the photos were minimal and of very poor quality (although apparently still good enough for TrailsWA to use them on their page for the trail).
I added updated photos after I came through here on the Bibbulmun Track in 2018 but with only three paragraphs of writing for the 16km loop, this was always a trail that wasn't up to scratch with everything else on the website. Never really organising a time to come back and do the half day circuit, in 2022 I have made time as part of a day to re-shoot the Bridgetown Jarrah Park and take in the Balingup Racecourse Flora Reserve. After a serving of my dads world famous pancakes (I drove down to stay with my parents the night before), I headed off to Greenbushes to reunite with one of the OG TLoP trails. Although I had recently hiked the 5km section that it shares with the Bibb, I didn't really remember much apart from the area around Greenbushes Pool and Schwenke's Dam, so this would almost be a brand new trail experience for me. With a chilly Djilba morning greeting me as I arrived, there was also a blanket of fog to provide a bit of atmosphere to the first part of the walk. This is one of the reasons I like to get out early as I love seeing places in different conditions, with mist and fog being one of my favourites.
Despite seeing an upturn in fortunes since my last visit thanks to the increased demand for the lithium that is mined nearby, Greenbushes was almost a ghost town as I parked on the main street. For a town with two pubs, I find it odd that there is only one cafe and it doesn't open on the weekends. Finding my bearings, I took some snaps of the main strip and set about starting along the trail in a clockwise direction. This would see me visit Greenbushes Pool first but would also mean a not very enjoyable finish, relative to the rest of the hike. Being prepared for this, I scooted off towards Stanifer Street and the exit out of the town section of the walk. This is much shorter than the finish and the local Anglican Church was looking spooky in the morning fog. Spotting the big wooden sign that signaled the start of the forest walking, I was happy to be back in my beloved Jarrah forest. Although initially following the edge of a farm, some nice wildflower finds kept me distracted until the route takes you along single trail leading into the forest. It felt good to be in the dampness of the Jarrah forest again with plenty of wildflower finds early on to complement the swathes of wattle lining the trail.
For the most part this section of forest leading to Greenbushes Pool was very enjoyable, with some older character trees appearing the closer I got to the car park. Seeing a larger example of one of my favourite plants in the world, the Snottygobble, was a delight, even more so given it contained a few fruit in various stages of ripening. Reaching Greenbushes Pool, I crossed the gravel car park and found another person photographing the little jetty. Not wanting to disturb her, I decided to check out the little boardwalk trail that I didn't remember from my last visit. Heading along the edge of the water, the boardwalk explores the Paperbark swampland with plenty of fungi and wildflowers loving this area. I stopped at the wooden lookout before turning around and heading back to the jetty but you can explore much further if you want to. With the jetty now free, I took my own snaps before locating the trail again and heading to the left of the pool to continue.
Heading through a thick tunnel of vegetation to cross the creek flowing from Greenbushes Pool, there were some Paperbarks here that reminded me of little alcoves on the Mokare Heritage Trail. Heading past the secondary car park and playground located on this side of the pool, you have to walk down the access road to the car park before sighting a trail marker pointing you onto single trail. This next section would be a mixed bag in terms of scenery but the interpretive signage lets you know why. I like that the trail doesn't shy away from the history of the area and when the landscape looks different, the signs are there to say what the reasons are. In this case there is a short stretch that was previously rehabilitated but not with local plants so it really stands out. Once you do reach more natural looking forest, as you walk towards Schwenke's Dam, the wildflowers return and there are glimpses through the trees to the edge of the water. After passing a man made Black Cockatoo nesting site on the edge of a vehicle track, I was soon staring at the wide dam wall.
With a grey morning not providing the best weather for the wide open vistas, the dam was looking a touch moody as I walked along the wide wall section. I did enjoy the Karri Hazel growing on the downstream side and the dead trees in the water provided a feature to photograph. Last time I was here I did a bit of research to see what was happening with the dam and there doesn't seem to be much sign of the planned rehabilitation that was promised. There is what looks like a little raft but I'm unsure if this is for locals swimming in here or something else. Keen to move on, I headed through the gap in the fence and continued along until I spotted a trail marker pointing me back into the forest. Initially joining a section of single track through some lovely Jarrah forest, eventually the trail joins up with an old rail form that would have been used by either the tin mining or logging operations in the area. These old rail forms are found all over the South West and make for great trails thanks to their size and already established path through the forest.
Now running parallel to Spring Gully, this was a really pleasant part of the loop as there was a relatively straight line to follow, plenty of great looking forest on either side and wildflowers to discover. Reminding me of the transition forest that lies between Gregory Brook and Donnelly River (an area I would visit on my next hike), the lush vegetation was full of surprises including some Bitter Peas and a vine form of Drosera. Continuing along and soaking in the majesty of being in the forest, I noticed a side trail leading down to Spring Gully. Deciding to follow, it wasn't until climbing back up a different path that I saw a sign explaining this was Flat Rock Falls. A cool little set of rapids with mossy boulders, this area was used by the tin miners back in the day and now just serves its intended purpose of directing water and looking pretty. Heading back to the main trail, it continues to follow the rail form until you reach a left turn onto an old vehicle track and head towards Mount Jones Dam.
Spotting a Holly-leaved Hovea and a Swamp Banksia as I walked along the track, soon the backup water supply for Greenbushes came into view. Previously used by the Vultan Tin Mine that operated in the 1960s, the dam is now there just in case the water supply from the main two dams, that you will see later on, runs dry. There are a few paths leading down to the edge of the water if you want to get a closer look but please be respectful that this is a water catchment area. The forest either side of the vehicle track is really nice with a lush feel to it, hit home by the sight of Bracken Ferns, something that reminds me of the temperate forest of Tasweginland. It can get a little confusing about where to go here as the vehicle track seemingly branches off into two sections. I followed the righthand path and it led to a small parking area where I spotted the metal bridge that takes you to the well disguised dam wall. Rather than being a concrete monstrosity, the Mount Jones Dam is a natural looking affair that has a lot of plants growing over the top of it.
Creating the illusion that it could just be a natural lake, an interpretive sign is there to let you know that this is in fact a dam. The unnatural colour is reminiscent of the old mining dams around Collie. At the end of the dam wall was a section that was my favourite of the entire walk as you climb up a series of wooden steps and into the forest. The wildflower and plant finds through here was amazing with Flame Peas, more Swamp Banksia, Drosera, Bracken Ferns, Hovea and the first large concentration of different types of fungi. I stopped at the top of the steps to take off my jacket and to really soak in this spot as it was my return to the Southern Forests after being away recently in the dry heat of the Northern Territory. The fungi finds were pretty cool as I loved on with some beautifully named Witches Butter (the jelly slime looking one), some Bracket Fungi and a brown cup variety that looked to be in the latter stages of its lifecycle. Ascending down the hill you just climbed up, I eventually reached the intersection with the Bibbulmun Track and it brought back plenty of memories from my time here in 2018.
It was one of my more emotional days on the track but also one of my favourites thanks to the variety of scenery and this stretch of walking between the Blackwood Valley Lookout and here. Happy to be back on the Bibbulmun again, this five kilometre section of the loop that it shares is some of the best walking and it was a smart decision to utilise what was here. Continuing to descend, there are mossy logs, a dense undergrowth and I found plenty of fungi lurking near the forest floor. It doesn't take long to reach the bottom, where you can take a short detour and get some better views overlooking the lake, before turning left and following the trail as it ascends pretty much the whole way back to the start (with some minor downhills). Following what looks like another rail form or at least a track that was used by the Vultan Tin Mine, the forest is doing its best to try and claim it back (and rightly so). The thick undergrowth was full of fungi, lichen and greenery as I climbed up towards the first of a couple of remnants from the olden days.
The first of these is the Old Mining Ramp that was used to load the trucks up with ore from the Vultan Tin Mine. The trucks would back up next to the ramp, receive their load and then drive off. Nowadays it is slowly falling apart and will one day no longer resemble a loading ramp. With mining history not really being my thing, I took a couple of photos and moved on. The area either side of the loading ramp feels a little unnatural as you're right near the edge of a property, it doesn't take long before you are back into the forest and walking along single trail. Happy to be meandering through what is above average looking regrowth forest, I was on the eye for different wildflowers now the elevation had changed. While there were flowers dotted around the place, I was a bit early in the season for the peak so had to be content with a few fungi finds, some Balgas and mossy logs (not a bad consolation prize). For some reason through here, I expected to run into Lead Guide for the Bibb Track Foundation, Steve Sertis, a nice surprise but one that never eventuated.
This stretch through here as you descend towards what is just labelled as "Seasonal Creek", as noted by a little footbridge and sign, is a continuation of the lovely Jarrah forest. Stopping quite a lot to take photos and breath in the clear air (the sight of the old mans beard lichen is a sign the air quality is superb as they can't survive in polluted air), I was happy to see an increase in the amount of Balgas lining the trail. This iconic Australian plant is super photogenic and provides a splash of vibrant green to any landscape shot. The fact that this is regrowth forest is not hidden from the walker with interpretive signage explaining various elements like Habitat Trees and there are some really nice examples to be found along here. Saved from the chop, these provide a sad reminder of what the forest used to look like but should also be celebrated as they provide homes and food to the endangered Black Cockatoo that call this place home. While I wouldn't hear their cries until later in my walk, I was reminded of my last walk through here where some white tails flew overhead.
After winding through the forest and back up the hill, the single track ends and you are deposited back onto an old vehicle track as it makes its way towards the Blackwood Valley Lookout. Now on a wider trail, the shroud of the forest was lessened, although this meant a much bigger range of view. The light grey trunks of the Jarrah tree through here was lovely as in their unburnt form, they have a softness to them that I really enjoy. Around the old logging ramp that has been left behind, the Bull Banksia start to appear, although I wasn't fortunate enough to see one in full flower. In my mind, the edge of the forest was just a quick walk away but it felt like it took a while longer to reach one of the more iconic and noticeable spots along the loop. Eventually though, the horizon starts to look a little different and it becomes obvious that there is no more forest past a certain point. Arriving at the bench that serves as a great spot to stop and have a rest, there are sweeping vistas overlooking the Blackwood River Valley.
It's quite a contrast as you sit on the edge of the forest after walking through it for the past 10kms to be presented with this wide open space of green farmland. As I sat on the bench and enjoyed a quick break, I was on the lookout for little wrens flitting about on the fence but none would stay there long enough for a decent photo. With a couple more trails to fit into today, plus a further 6km of walking before I finished this trail, my break was brief and I was soon back into the forest. It was a bit sad knowing that I was soon going to be leaving the Bibbulmun Track but the journey back to town was going to be an almost new experience as I didn't take any photos of this section on my first visit here and the memories are a little fuzzy about what the scenery looked like. Wanting to enjoy this next stretch of forest, I put that thought to the back of mind and continued on. The walking is pleasant and with the atmosphere starting to feel like rain was imminent, the cooler air meant the damp smells of the forest were more obvious.
There is about a kilometre of walking before you reach the point where the Greenbushes Loop heads back to town and the Bibb Track continues towards Balingup. Right before that spot you reach a swampy looking area and the final hurrah is a creek crossing, complete with small wooden footbridge. The trail junction is obvious as there are multiple trail markers separating out the two trails, a big metal sign providing details about the Greenbushes Loop and a gravel road that unfortunately is the way the loop heads back to town. I think the reason why the last five kilometres wasn't as memorable is because it wasn't an engaging walk so I kind of expected it to be mostly on vehicle tracks (or in this case unsealed roads). Saying goodbye to the Bibbulmun, I continued along my merry way, thinking that at least I could make up some time as I walked along the edge of the wide road. For the most part, this first stretch isn't such a bad walk with a few wildflowers lining the edge of the trail and a flooded section that I was happy had a footbridge to the left of the road to use.
With the clouds gathering overhead, it was actually pretty good lighting to shoot the wider vistas I was now walking through and the forest was looking a treat. The photos do sort of blend into themselves a little bit and I definitely think this stretch could use some time along single trail to get a better connection with the forest. Weirdly on the "Map" version of the interactive map I have at the top of the page, the Greenbushes Loop is marked on what looks like single trail through the forest but the frequency of trail markers along the vehicle track suggested this was the correct route. After about 2.5km of combined vehicle track walking, you reach a cleared area with a fenced off pump and you have the pleasure of turning right and heading down towards the towns official water supply. With slight glimpses through the trees of the water, my gaze was instead focused on a Red Capped Parrot that was feeding in the trees to my right and I was fortunate enough to get a clear enough photo of the brightly coloured bird. Heading downhill you pass a small farm and then reach a left turn at another vehicle track that takes you towards the southern ends of the two dams that supply Greenbushes with drinking water.
I didn't include many photos from this stretch as the grey skies combined with the unnatural looking scenery didn't make for great picture galleries. The forest to the right looked quite nice but for the most part, it was a bit dull and the non-native species along here really stood out. After passing the second of the two dams, you curve right and there is a milky looking lake to the right that doesn't look attached to the main water catchment (I'd hope not given the colour of it). It was an odd little lake but had some ducks so that made me happy. Continuing along the last vehicle track section before reaching Blackwood Road, it rained briefly but there was a nice stretch of forest with a few new wildflowers and the last fungi I would see for the walk. Before Blackwood Road, you pass some private property and it feels like you are coming back into town. Unfortunately the last kilometres of walking in along pavement as you walk into the centre of town. It's only until you reach near the Discovery Centre that it becomes more interesting, with the purple signs out the front of most properties providing the history of each site and what business used to be there. With the walk over, I stopped in at the Discovery Centre, which I can recommend visiting as there are many interactive displays providing information about the town and its history.
Final Thoughts – 2022 has been a year of revisiting old trails and providing a refresh of photos and information. The Greenbushes Loop was probably the page that was in most need of this as the photos were from my old phone and I only had a few paragraphs of writing.
An often overlooked trail, the Greenbushes Loop is really the type of trail we need more of in Western Australia, so I'm happy that it exists. A good half day adventure that connects you with the forest and in terms of interpretive signage to explain various aspects of the landscape and history, this is one of the better examples.
It's not perfect by any means with the non-Bibbulmun sections being a mix of degraded land leftover from mining and logging but the trail doesn't shy away from including that as part of the experience.
I would recommend adding this trail to a South West getaway if you have the time, especially if you want to experience some of the Bibbulmun Track through here without doing a town to town section.
Get out there and experience it!
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