Quinninup to Pemberton
Munda Biddi Trail
Start
Quinninup
Time
3-5 Hours
Finish
Pemberton
Date Ridden
2nd September 2021
Length
39.3km
Elevation
660m
Traditional Custodians
Bibbulman People
The Ride - Another day and another town to town ride on the Munda Biddi to look forward to. Having split this section into two 40km rides with a stop in Quinninup, we would have another leisurely pedal into one of my favourite towns in the South West. With no café to enjoy a bite of breakfast at, we had a bit of a sleep in and then packed up our gear ready for the journey ahead. It's probably a good thing we didn't take a rest day in Pemberton today as the forecast was for cold and wet weather after a night of decent rain. With a maximum temperature of 12C, it was one of those cold snaps in the South West where it snowed on Bluff Knoll.
Rugged up and ready to go, we said good morning to the local kangaroos at the Eco Tourist Park main lawn and rode up to the Quinninup Tavern. I didn't really feel like riding back up to the official start so I fired up the Strava at the tavern and we headed off along Wheatley Coast Road. Riding down towards the idyllic farmland scenes, this was a familiar spot for me as I'd walked this route getting to the King Karri Trail in 2015. An iconic feature of Quinninup and one I really love is the wooden sculpture as you enter town, the Quinninup Eagle. At the bottom of the hill you will see a wooden sign pointing you to a walk trail along with more colourful Munda Biddi markers. Since my visit in 2015 they have installed a large metal sign at the entrance to the King Karri Trail, which is fantastic to see as the trails in Quinninup used to be hard to find unless you happened to grab a pamphlet at the community centre. This was my first interaction with the Munda Biddi outside of the Perth Hills area and at the time it was slightly inconceivable how someone would ride for day after day with all their gear but now I know it's not as daunting as I thought it would be (actually quite relaxing).
With mostly sunny conditions to start our ride, I knew it wouldn't last so I focused on enjoying the clear weather while it lasted. The overnight rains and wind had made a bit of a mess of the trail with branches and fallen trees blocking the way in parts. It was only a minor inconvenience in what was a lovely area leading towards the crossing of South Western Highway. With the beautiful Karri forest of Greater Dordagup National Park providing a great backdrop, the riding was super enjoyable as we rolled over the highway and started climbing. The ominous dark clouds had joined us and the heavens started to open up right after we entered the forest again. With a light sprinkle falling, it started to get heavier so I searched for a thick boi Karri to take shelter under. With the forecast for rolling showers, it would be over soon so I huddled under my raincoat while admiring my bikepacking setup that had taken me this far. While it was cold and wet, standing under that tree was one of those moments where you take stock of where you are and how good life can be.
Aron was not too worried about getting wet while riding as he had no camera to keep dry so put on his horrible fluro yellow backpack cover and rode off into the distance. As expected it was a brief shower so when things cleared up I resurfaced and got back in the saddle to warm up. Continuing to climb, the forest through here was pretty good thanks to the occasional giant Karri and a smattering of wildflowers brightening up the scene. Running parallel to Wheatley Coast Road, you would never know it thanks to the thick undergrowth and given this was a Thursday morning, we were unlikely to hear much traffic. The wide trail soon turned into fantastic single trail as the descent started and I had good fun catching up to Aron. With the forest constantly changing, we reached a spot where I had a bit of a laugh. We could see a tree had fallen over up ahead but on closer inspection there was a trail cut to go around it. As we re-joined the proper trail, it appeared that one tree had already been cut in two right next to this new tree so perhaps they decided a trail around was easier than cutting up every tree that falls in this area.
Continuing along the single trail, the rainfall overnight had created a large puddle that was unavoidable so I volunteered as tribute to see how deep it was by riding first. It wasn't so bad so I stopped at the end and turned back to photograph Aron enjoying the splash. Reaching Wheatley Coast Road once again, this would be the last time we would see this road until Northcliffe and the Quokka sign intrigued Aron. It's a common misconception in WA that Quokkas only live on Rottnest Island but there is a mainland population in the Karri forests stretching from Walpole up to Pemberton. Our chances of seeing one in the wild were slim, especially as we were whizzing past on bikes but nonetheless we would be keeping an eye out. Heading along a sandy vehicle track, we encountered another piece of farmland where a kangaroo had decided the grazing was better than the surrounding forest. Taking a hard left, we started climbing up a smol puppa hill and into some regrowth Karri that was a sign of things to come. Having ridden through the lovely forest of Greater Dordagup earlier, this was a step down in terms of quality so I used it as a chance to get a move on.
With the sun making a brief appearance while we were riding through this section, it wasn't enough to provide any warmth to the ride. Normally I would wear my jacket for the first kilometre and then relocate it to my backpack for the duration of the day but today I think it only came off for one brief section, it was that chilly. Riding along O'Hare Road, we followed the twists and turns as the trail went up and down but there wasn't too much to write home about. The most eventful part of this stretch was another passing shower that turned into a brief pelting of hail. I once again took refuge, under some Peppermints this time and waited out the heaviest shower of the day. Emerging from my hidey hole, I caught up to Aron and we had a chuckle at the weather we were copping today. Riding along O'Hare Road we came across some more unpleasantness thanks to native logging. It was turning out to be a bikepacking tour of all the logging areas of the South West and it put a dampener on the morning. I chose to ignore it and kept moving, just disappointed at the way we treat our forests in WA.
Turning off O'Hare Road we had arrived home with some more unsealed riding along Home Road. This led to some extended farmland riding with State Forest to our left and green fields to our right. The first stretch was a bit of a mess with the side of the road and parts of what we would ride over being heavily chewed up by tractors and quite muddy. The scene in the distance more than made up for the muck with a solitary tree on top of a green hill in the foreground and the passing rain band heading away form us in the background. With a bit of classic Windows theme about it, I hopped off the bike and wandered over to the fence to take as many photos as I thought was necessary. Riding up a small hill, we reached some of the best farmland scenes of the whole trail with some distant views looking over an avocado plantation and then a left turn onto Grays Road. At the intersection we noticed some sheep and being the season for it, there were some young lambs running around. Heading down the hill, the artificial lake, Karri trees and green fields made for an idyllic scene and definitely had a Shire-like feel to it.
Reaching a bridge, this turned out to be the Warren River and it was looking a treat even if it was a bit different to our previous encounter the day before thanks to the extensive farmland in the area. As with most river crossings, there was a hill on the other side and this was the steepest of the day with the early gradients reaching 15% as we entered some lovely looking forest. The trees were a nice distraction as I powered up the hill, stopping to take some appreciation photos of the gorgeous Karri trees that lined the road. Waiting for Aron at the top of the hill that also happened to be the next turnoff, I was eyeing off the dark clouds that looked to have another surprise for us. After another small section of unsealed road we joined onto an old rail formation for some enjoyable single track riding through the dense forest. Having spent the last 12km riding on wide roads, this was a welcome relief and certainly lifted my mood. The next few kilometres all seemed to melt into one long stretch of okay riding with the dense forest replaced with a wider track that had an overgrown feeling at the base and yet still felt exposed. I didn't take too many photos through here as the sunshine was very bright and the Karri forest hidden by the undergrowth.
Following the ups and downs, it was a part of the day that I was happy to get through but was hoping for something different very soon. Waiting for Aron at the intersection of Collins Road and Gloucester Road, this exposed area didn't promise a change but after a short ride along Collins Road we turned left and started our descent down into something a lot more enjoyable. After a couple of pinch climbs and a couple of sharp righthand turns, we had reached the Eastbrook Trail as it runs parallel to East Brook (unbelievable I know). Having descended down into the lush valley, this is the kind of scenery you dream about when thinking about the Pemberton area. Thick, tall Karri trees, a babbling brook, fungi on every piece of rotting wood and a dampness that fills the air. I was in heaven riding along the trail as we slowly ascended up the gentlest of hills. Across the valley were a lot of giant Karri trees and I love seeing so many solid trunks in one grouping as it's a rare sight. Soaking in the majesty of this spot, I was happy to have some cloudy weather so the photos didn't look too overblown, always a worry of mine when in the Karri forest. Reaching a left turn, you cross over East Brook via a small bridge and continue climbing through the forest.
Turning off the Eastbrook Trail, you continue climbing and after waiting for Aron for a little bit and him not catching up, I splashed through the large puddle and went on my merry way. Eventually stopping at where the trail meets Browns Road, I did stop here to wait but it took Aron forever to reach me. He had been walking up some hills throughout the last couple of weeks but this was getting ridiculous. When he eventually caught up, it turned out he had met a couple with their doggos and stopped for a chat. While I was waiting I figured out that the Lavender and Berry Farm was a short detour off trail but being so close to Pemberton, it was decided that we would continue on and enjoy afternoon tea in town. From here you ride down Browns Road, briefly join the old railway line and then cross Vasse Highway onto Golf Links Road. Mention this road to most Munda Biddi riders and you tend to get the same groan, maybe an eyeroll and then an explanation about why they didn't enjoy this particular section. I can see the reasoning and with a cold, stiff headwind against us, this wasn't the most pleasant way to arrive into town.
I think most of the frustration seems to come from the fact that when you join the Eastbrook Trail, you are close to town but then go on a roundabout way to reach it. I didn't mind the ride along the combination of unsealed and sealed roads as the Karri trees lining the road in places are nice and the sprawling farmland is fairly easy on the eye. We copped a couple of brief showers along here but it didn't take too long to reach the end and a really fun descent down towards the Pemberton Mountain Bike Park. Keep an eye out for where the Munda Biddi points you back into the forest as it can be easy to miss. I had stopped at this point so Aron didn't ride by and we rode the last section together. I didn't realise we were so close to the famous Pemby Pool as it didn't take long before I was exclaiming "oh, we are here already". I can see why the trail takes you here and it's a really pretty spot that you may miss if the trail didn't route you this way. Parking up on the edge of the pool, we had a stroll around and I took plenty of photos to showcase this photogenic location.
When I was planning this ride out, I had decided to pack a pair of boardies for the exact purpose of taking a dip here on our rest day but with arctic temperatures today, there was no way that was happening now. Leaving Pemby Pool, it's a small climb towards the main strip of Pemberton where we had a poke around the Visitor Centre looking for a log book to sign (not surprisingly the Munda Biddi one was nowhere to be found). Defeated, we headed to Cafe Brasil for afternoon tea and a well deserved hot beverage. Our accommodation for the night had been kindly arranged by Perth Trail Series guru Melina and we were staying with a friend of hers but it was opposite the DBCA office at the top of the hill. That meant from Pemby Pool it was a 90m vertical climb to finish the day that I don't think Aron was too impressed with. We met our host for the night and had a chat in the sunshine of the yard before unpacking and showering. The night was spent on the couch, eating takeaway pizza from Sage Pizza, drinking wine and watching the SBS Food channel.
Final Thoughts - While the rest day in Pemberton didn't eventuate, the two 40km days ended up being a nice experience and given the cold weather, I don't think we missed out on anything.
Knowing the section between Pemberton to Northcliffe was a really impressive day of riding, this day leaving Quinninup just doesn't compare. There are moments in Greater Dordagup, near the Warren River and along the Eastbrook Trail but there is whole lot of filler riding that leaves a bit to be desired.
Some of it is unavoidable as the State Forests of the South West are degraded heavily by a constant cycle of logging so hopefully in 50-100 years when the effects of the native logging ban come into fruition it will be a better ride.
Arriving into Pemberton is always a memorable event and I love this town that is embracing the trails as a great way of getting people visiting and growing a community.
Get out there and experience it!!!
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