Badjirrajirra Trail
Cape Range National Park
Directions - Located about 35km from Exmouth, head south out of town on Minilya-Exmouth Road and take a right on Charles Knife Road. Follow the signs for Cape Range National Park and keeping driving up into the range until you see the right turn for the Thomas Carter Lookout. Continue along this road until you reach another right turn that leads to the car park. The information board and start of the trail are on the eastern side of the car park.
The Hike - With three marked trails within Cape Range National Park providing some nice activities to enjoy when holidaying in Exmouth, I only had one left on my to-do list. Saving the longest trail until last, only Hal was keen on joining me on this one so we made plans to have an early start before the heat of the day kicked in. Having completed the Yardie Gorge Trail and Mandu Mandu Gorge, this hike would be starting on the opposite side of Cape Range and I was looking forward to seeing it from a different perspective.
After a quick breakfast and coffee, Hal and I loaded up in the CH-R and headed south out of town towards the Charles Knife Canyon turnoff. The eastern side of the cape provides access to the deeper gorges and canyons with some stunning lookouts and vehicle tracks to explore. Climbing up into the range along Charles Knife Road, both Hal and I were impressed with the sheer drop-offs on either side of the unsealed road and made a point of saying we would stop on the way back. Keen to get out to the start of the trail and take advantage of the cooler conditions, we negotiated the maze of tracks to reach the Thomas Carter Lookout where the Badjirrajirra Trail begins. There were already a few cars here, something I love to see as it means people are out enjoying the trail, so we got our packs on with minimal faffing before climbing the small hill to the official lookout. Being the longest official trail within Cape Range National Park, the Badjirrajirra Trail offers more of a challenge than Yardie and Mandu Mandu and one I was excited to experience.
The good thing about starting at the highest point you'll reach on the 8km loop is that you can trace where you will be going from the lookout. With an open landscape ahead of us stretching all the way to the waters of the Exmouth Gulf, you could be excused for thinking the trail won't be very interesting based on the broader vistas being somewhat flat. I knew what was coming a bit later and was keen to see what the flatter parts looked like, so we headed down the hill and off on our final hiking adventure for the trip. Hal stormed off into the distance as he likes to do while I hung back and photographed everything that caught my eye, as I like to do. I was happy to see some light clouds hanging around the horizon as they always make the wide shots look much prettier. Descending down towards the spinifex plains that dominate this area, I found a few wildflowers to photograph and there was a lot more here than what it looks like from the Thomas Carter Lookout. Passing over a few dry creek beds, Hal went to follow the rocky valley instead of the trail and I had to call out to him to make a course correction.
With beautiful weather and cool temperatures for now, this was turning out to be a lovely hike as we reached the decision point for the loop. After a bit of a short uphill we reached the wooden sign pointing you either the direct route to Shothole Canyon (have to be careful when typing that one) or the longer way heading anti-clockwise on the loop trail. Wanting to get the great views overlooking the canyon while the sun was still in a decent position for photography, I suggested to Hal we keep going straight and he agreed. While Hal shot off into the distance, I continued my slower approach and this stretch was really enjoyable with the undulating terrain hiding some excellent wildflowers. While it looked quite flat and exposed from the Thomas Carter Lookout, the reality down here was that there was enough shade in parts and lots of up and down walking to enjoy. While scanning the flora lining the trail, I noticed a clumping of dead eucalyptus leaves that didn't look like they formed that way naturally.
We had seen something similar while hiking Mandu Mandu Gorge and our assumption then was this was some kind of formation built by insects to protect their nests/young. Taking a photo and moving on, I would come across more insect life as I found a stunning looking Cape Range Grevillea that was playing home to an army of ants, the unheralded pollinators of the insect world. Enjoying seeing plenty of Cassia varieties and some beautiful Eremophilias, I looked back at one point and saw a few fully formed spider webs that luckily contained a couple of spiders. Although the sun was shining directly on them and thus the photos were horribly overexposed, it was cool to see them in the morning just hanging out and waiting for a meal to fly by. A wildflower I was very taken by on this trip that I came to call the Cape Range Orchid (not its real name) was a pink, red and orange star-shaped flower called Leptosema macrocarpum (unable to find a common name for it online).
Rising over one of the small hills, I got a little excited as I had my first glimpse of the canyon system that makes this trail so enjoyable. Also spotting Hal in the distance, he was waiting for me at the wooden sign letting you know that Shothole Lookout was up ahead. The image I most associate with this trail and one of the reasons I was excited to hike it was from my podcast partner Donovan of his wife Alissa standing on the edge of the canyon looking out over the remarkable scene. I wouldn't make Hal pose for the same photo, although imagining the look on his face if I asked is pretty funny, so I instead went about exploring the first of the two jutty out bits that provide excellent views over the canyon. After a pretty subdued but enjoyable start to the hike, this was all amount smacking you in the face with epic scenery and vistas as far as the eye could see. Hal had already ventured out towards the end of the first lookout spot so I started exploring the western side that looks over what is a super impressive landscape that is difficult to comprehend the timescale that was needed to create it.
This is where my 18-140mm lens came in handy with the option to capture both the wide shots and zoom in to focus on the details below including some interesting scarring on the sides of the canyon. Meeting up with Hal overlooking the eastern side, we both agreed this was pretty spectacular and well worth the hike out. I continued to explore the ridge, noticing a sign saying a walk trail was closed due to dangerous conditions. I thought it was odd they would stop people hiking the Badjirrajirra Trail from continuing further along the wide ridge as it seemed perfectly safe. I headed out towards the end and it soon became apparent that there is a linking trail between this ridge and the carpark at the bottom of Shothole Canyon. I could trace the route from some sketchy looking rocks all the way down the narrow ridge of the hill leading down and thought that would make a great side trail or extension of this hike if you could somehow loop back up the other section that sticks out.
From this vantage point I could see all the way down the canyon towards Exmouth Gulf and it was an awe-inspiring sight to behold. The vehicle track snaking along the valley floor creates a natural guide for your eyes as you follow the deep crevices created by water and time. After taking a lot of photos, I joined Hal once again and we set off to find the trail as it continued on the loop around the edge of the canyon. We checked out the other ridge that provides yet another fantastic viewing opportunity and this one was just as good as the first. It's hard not to be amazed at the views here and I found myself stopping every few steps and just soaking it all in. With plenty of photos in the bag and the buzz of such a special place taking hold, we reluctantly moved on and started the remainder of the loop back to the trail intersection. Hal stormed off ahead as I continued at my usual pace, photographing the wide vistas ahead of me and taking the opportunity to capture the blue shimmer of the Exmouth Gulf in the distance.
Expecting much of the same kind of terrain as the journey out to Shothole Canyon, I was pleasantly surprised when I came across some rockier trail. The dips and climbs were of a similar size but this area felt much different thanks to the trail following the edge of some seasonal creeks that provide a nicer place for the taller vegetation to grow. Continuing to follow the white marker poles that keep you on track when the trail disappears in a sea of orange rock, I was enjoying that there was a lot more to this trail than the epic canyon views. At the tops of some of the hills you can see smaller gorges that have been cut into the landscape and this was just a taste of what was to come. Reaching a rocky platform that was part of a creek system, I noticed a dark patch to my left that turned out to be a hollow in the rocks that a fig tree has sent roots down in search of water. It was a pretty cool sight to see how nature adapts and survives in an area that doesn't receive a lot of rainfall.
As I climbed out of the little valley I thought to myself that I hadn't seen a trace of Hal recently. I had been going slow but not so slow that I wouldn't have seen him in the distance from atop a hill. Thinking back to the first rocky creek crossing, I wondered if he had taken a wrong turn in one of the many similar looking spots I had recently passed. Picking up the pace a little, I stopped every now and then to take photos but when I got to the top of the next hill and could see a fair distance down the trail with no Hal on it, I started to think about doubling back. In the end, I rationalised that he is an intelligent man and would soon figure it out so if he did take a wrong turn then he would soon pass me. As I reached another little peak, I spotted a familiar blue shirt and akubra so breathed a small sigh of relief. Now heading back to the west and the final part of the loop, I went back to my meandering ways and enjoyed the views off towards the deeper gorges leading out towards the gulf.
There was one final enjoyable rocky section before I reached the trail intersection and I took my time here to explore the area. Hopping onto the top section, I admired the vegetated chasm leading off to the south before heading down into the dry creek bed to check out a large tree that clearly enjoys this spot. Providing a rare shady spot, I assume this is a favourite for local wildlife during the wet season when temperatures through here can reach into the 40s. The final part leading to the intersection is really enjoyable as you walk along the edge of a small cliff and stare out over the valley below. Joining a more familiar spinifex dominated landscape, I spotted Hal enjoying an apple while he waited and soon we were discussing how enjoyable that last section was. With a Zoom call to get to, we made our way up the final hill towards the car park, passing several day walkers who had arrived after tourist o'clock. With the sun behind us, I savoured the last climb and the much better lighting that comes with shooting in this direction. On the drive back to the accommodation we stopped to admire Charles Knife Canyon and it was just as impressive as Shothole Canyon.
Final Thoughts - I think we definitely saved the best for last when it comes to the hikes within Cape Range National Park.
While Yardie Gorge and Mandu Mandu Gorge were nice, the Badjirrajirra Trail explores a lot more terrain and gives you the outstanding highlight of Shothole Canyon.
I'm always partial to a longer trail and this is much more than a linking trail to the excellent views. The landscape has a hidden beauty to it that you don't appreciate from a distance so to have the ability to see it up close makes for a rewarding experience.
This is another must-do hike when visiting Exmouth and as always be smart about the time of day you visit when the temperatures are forecast to be over 30C.
Get out there and experience it!
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