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Karri Forest on the Munda Biddi near Donnelly River

Donnelly River to Karta Burnu

Munda Biddi Trail

Start

Donnelly River

Time

2-3 Hours

Finish

Karta Burnu Hut

Date Ridden

31st August 2021

Length

24.2km

Elevation

567m

Traditional Custodians

Bibbulman People

The Ride - There are certain spots along the Munda Biddi and Bibbulmun Track that you mark down as places to really enjoy when you're there and Donnelly River is one of those for me. Enjoying a couple of gentle riding days either side of our stay in this idyllic little holiday hamlet, I was quite happy to have a lazy morning enjoying the ambiance. Making this an easy decision was a light drizzle that was hanging around as we woke up. Steph and Leigh, who were sharing our Bunkhouse dorm room, were already off and away before it was light as they were covering big daily distances on the Bibb Track. 

While some people may not like cold and drizzly weather, I absolutely love it so was quite happy to spend the morning lounging around on the deck. With the General Store not open for breakfast until after 8am from memory, we took our time packing the bikes up and photographing the wildlife. The other Bibb walkers who weren't on a busy schedule were also up and about, saying hello to the birds, kangaroos and emus that call this place home. One of the simple delights of this spot is seeing the wildlife up close and some are quite cheeky as they know humans mean food (which you can buy at the General Store so please don't feed them anything else). The emus always have a smug look on their faces knowing that they are undefeated in war against Australia, something they are all too happy to tell you about with their death stares. The highlight of the morning was seeing the baby emus running around, following their dad and trying to not get trampled on by all the other emus and kangaroos. 

 

Walking our bikes to the General Store to return our bedding and see if they were open for breakfast, the clouds certainly looked like they were going to be hanging around for the morning. With the forecast not showing any significant rain on the horizon, I was happy to enjoy a long breakfast and get going when the drizzle stopped. Sitting inside, the small fireplace was doing a great job at warming us up on this cold morning while we ordered some food and coffee. With some warm food in our tanks and a moderate 47km to ride today to get to Manjimup, we had one last look at the commotion going on outside with all the animals getting fed before saddling up. On the cards this morning was a leisurely ride through some excellent Karri forest, glimpses of the Donnelly River and then a climb up to the campsite at Karta Burnu. The drizzle had eased slightly and I knew once we were in the forest, the trees would provide some protection for my camera lens. Heading out of town the same way the Bibbulmun Track leaves, it brought back some memories of my first multiday section way back in 2017. 

Criss-crossing with the Bibbulmun Track for the first little section to Yanmah Brook, you get some mixed forest with just the hint of Karri goodness. The moist conditions were perfect after a mostly sunny journey through the northern Jarrah forests and I think that the Karri forest is always best when there is overhead cloud and the threat of rain. Riding along vehicle tracks, I was sticking mostly to the side of the trail trying to spot different wildflowers and was in luck with some Wattle and what looked like Tea Tree flowers. Reaching Yanmah Brook, the Bibbulmun departs to the right for a meeting with the Donnelly River, while the Munda Biddi continues to follow Yanmah Brook south. Crossing over Yanmah Brook to ride on the southern side, the trail passes over a gauging station that made me a little sad given the battle brewing in this area over the idiotic idea to dam the Donnelly River. In one of the wettest parts of the state, a small group of greedy farmers is trying to destroy the forests around here so they can get access to a bit more water, to the cost of the farmers not included in the scheme and the environment.

 

At the time of writing the plan seems to have stalled because the CSIRO called them out on their rainfall/streamflow figures being based on data from the 1970s but common sense never takes precedence when politics and money are involved so the fight isn't over. On the south side of the brook there is a reminder of what makes this area so special with a really nice patch of mature forest that I took great joy in stopping and photographing. Aron provided a nice foreground object for the photos as he did so well over the course of the trip, until he got too far away and I had to catch up. This section was one of many pleasurable sections of the morning and is why doing these activities is so enriching for the soul. Doing nothing but riding through these stunning swathes of forest and admiring their beauty really leaves a mark on you that just seeing pictures on the interwebs doesn't quite match. Spotting the markers pointing us up a small hill, we had to check the map as the way was clearly blocked but Aron confirmed this is the way. We were getting used to carrying our bikes over trees in the past week so this was just another upper body workout on the Munda Biddi.

Rising up the hill, we were treated with some more excellent forest filled with Purple Hovea until reaching some dry sclerophyll forest that provided a bit of a change. Spotting what I think was my first Foxtail of the whole trip, we exited some single trail and joined an old vehicle track for some flat kilometres. Right near the end of this section I slammed on the brakes as out of the corner of my eye there was a flash of pink. My spidey senses were working at maximum as hidden in the undergrowth was a collection of Pink Fairy Orchids and while I was on all fours trying to get a steady photo, I noticed a Jug Orchid just chilling nearby. Buoyed by my orchid finds after a bit of a dry run the previous day, it wouldn't be long until we were back in the magnificence of the Karri forest. Turning onto another vehicle track, this is sometimes the best way to appreciate the size of the Karri trees as the wider path allows for a greater perspective. When I think of the romantic notion of bikepacking, this is the image I have with a nice gentle trail through tall trees and a lush understory. This was the best Karri forest of the day and I was stopping often to try and capture the magic. 

Cruising along with a big smile on my face, I wasn't rushing through here as you never quite know when the scenery will change. With plenty of photos in the bag, I found Aron waiting at an intersection where there were wooden signs pointing you towards Donnelly River Village, which is in completely the opposite direction to where we had just come from. From here we had one last little stretch of vehicle track as we finally reached the Donnelly River and utilised the road bridge to get over the other side. This would start a section of riding either parallel or close to the Donnelly River and probably the most enjoyable bit of riding of the whole day. Joining some single track, this was a fun blast with the trail winding its way through the lush forest with mossy logs, giant trees and lots of fungi brightening up the scene. I had to stop at one point with the trail overlooking the river, although the views were limited thanks to the thickness of the undergrowth. Continuing on, this next part was super enjoyable with flowing single track providing some joyful riding and one I just enjoyed so didn't stop for many photos. 

Popping out of the single trail onto a wider section where you join the Bibbulmun Track again, this is due to ease of access crossing Cow Brook. I was last here a couple of months prior when I took my oldest niece for her first overnighter from One Tree Bridge to Tom Road Campsite and it was a nice moment then standing there and imagining this epic journey I was about to go on. Now I was finally here, it was a fun thought to realise that I was actually doing it. Leaving the Bibbulmun once again, the Munda Biddi follows a different route towards One Tree Bridge. The riding continued to be excellent through forest that contained less of the golden Karri and more Yarri and Jarrah trees. I heard the familiar cries of the Black Cockatoo but had some difficulty getting close enough for a photo. Not helping was the grey conditions so in the end I couldn't get a clear shot so just focused on enjoying watching them from a distance. Reaching the entry road for the Greens Island Campground,  it meant that One Tree Bridge wasn't too far away and we would be riding through some really enjoyable Karri forest, based on my walking on the Bibbulmun. 

After passing between some giant Yarri trees, the undergrowth started to offer up some lush offerings with Tassel Flowers and some delicate ferns. Having walked through this area recently, I knew up the hill from the Donnelly River had been badly burnt a year or two ago so I wasn't expecting great scenery leading up to the river crossing. This turned out to be true with the Karri trees looking a little worse for wear and the undergrowth still recovering. Stopping at One Tree Bridge for a look at this historic site, I suggested we head under the road bridge and park our bikes near the suspension bridge that has been built for trail users. This meant we could have a snack and some fluids while we walked on the bridge and admired the Donnelly River up close. I loved this spot when I walked through and visiting again was no different with the views looking south along the river being iconic for this area. With a ride along the river and then the biggest climb of the day up to the campsite left for the morning, we packed up our bikes and headed off. 

While the Bibbulmun Track follows the edge of the Donnelly River for the next 12km into Boarding House Campsite, the Munda Biddi only has a brief relationship with this lovely river before leaving it to head east towards Manjimup. Knowing this, I wanted to savour the last of the river riding for the day so took my time to photograph the lovely views and soak in the magic. Stopping at one point to take photos, I heard a rumble ahead and it turned out to be another Munda Biddi rider heading in the opposite direction. This was a rare sighting on our trip so far so when he eventually got to my position we all had a chat about the trail and our plans. Departing our separate ways, Aron and I reached the turnoff from the Donnelly and a spot that I didn't envy when I walked through on the Bibb as the Munda Biddi pretty much goes straight up a mean looking hill. As it turns out, the first incline is the worst of it and from that point it levels out and follows a series of switchback as you rise 100m vertically to the top. Knowing the campsite was at the top of the hill and Aron most likely going to walk a fair section of the hill, I said my goodbyes and turboed off at my own pace. The gradients were much better than I expected and the hill climb was much more enjoyable than most of the other hills we had experienced over the last week and a half.

The forest through here was nice an enclosed with a mixture of tree thickness and heavy undergrowth providing a tunnel of vegetation between the switchbacks. Towards the top of the climb you get a stunning section of Karri forest that feels really special before reaching the area that has been altered by man. The forest quickly transitions from something similar to what you've been riding through for most of the day to plantation style scenery as you reach private property. The reason for this is the area is called Foresters Wood and was an experimental spot for plantations, something that becomes more obvious after you pass through the cattle grid and out into the open. It's a bit of a shock entering the open space after pretty much a full day of being buried in the forest and I can't say I enjoyed the short ride from here up to the campsite. Karta Burnu is located right at the top of a hill and nestled in a plantation of trees similar to pines. It overlooks the valley and from the comments in the log book, is a nice place for the sunset. I can't say it was one of my favourite campsites on the Munda Biddi but as we weren't staying there, I didn't really get the full experience. While I waited for Aron to arrive, I had a flick through the log books and enjoyed a Snickers that I had bought at breakfast that morning. With the first half of the day over, we had a similar length ride to reach our overnight stop at Manjimup to go. 

Final Thoughts - The Donnelly River section was one that I had marked off as an area to slow down and really enjoy knowing that this is one of those magical spots in Western Australia. 

It didn't disappoint with some of the best riding of the whole Munda Biddi through those wonderful sections of Karri forest. 

As I said before, some of this day perfectly encapsulates the idyllic notion of bikepacking with gentle terrain, tall forest and memorable scenery. 

This is one of my longer posts for the Munda Biddi despite being one of the shortest sections distance wise for very good reason, this is a fantastic ride with plenty to enjoy. 

Get out there and experience it!!!

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