Yonga Trail
Lesueur National Park
Directions - The Yonga Trail is located within Lesueur National Park, a three hour drive from Perth. Make your way onto Mitchell Freeway and head north until it ends at Romeo Road. Turn right and follow this to Wanneroo Road, taking a left here and continuing along for a couple of hours. Just after Jurien Bay, take the right turn at Jurien Road and follow this until you see the signs for Lesueur National Park. Enter the park, turning right onto Gairdner Road, parking at the main car park for the Mount Lesueur Walk.
The Hike - In 2021, there was a pleasant announcement from DBCA that we would be getting a new overnight trail in Lesueur National Park called the Yonga Trail (Yonga being the Noongar word for Kangaroo). A 26km circuit leading through the park, there is a new campsite that features a small shelter and several tent platforms that you can book out for a small fee. The WA hiking community rejoiced and the winter and spring of 2021 was difficult to get a booking, as everyone was keen to see what the new trail was like.
After finishing a Munda Biddi end to end ride in September, my partner suggested we walk the Yonga Trail together in early October and booked us a tent platform. I was super keen to visit, as I'd never been to Lesueur National Park but in a series of unfortunate events, I forgot my spare camera batteries and then the clutch in my X-Trail gave out as we were driving through Wanneroo on the way home. I really enjoyed the hike but couldn't share the experience on here as I only had photos from the first 12 kilometres (I took 900 photos as there was plenty to see and I had lots of time). Vowing to return, the winter and spring of 2022 was spent researching and writing my first book (available for purchase here) and it wasn't looking likely in 2023 until I half-heartedly mentioned I was thinking about hiking it to Perth Trails Series extraordinaire, Melina. Caris and I were staying with Melina in Collie for a relaxing weekend of mountain biking, board games and doggo walks when the serious planning started.
Melina had mentioned to me before that she wanted to get up to Lesueur to visit the new trail, so with a free schedule the following weekend, we made plans to do it in one day. While I love that the trail is the perfect length for us Perthians to drive the three hours up to Jurien Bay, hike the trail in two days without feeling rushed and then drive home, I didn't really want to dedicate the whole weekend to it. Adding in that Melina is a distance runner and convincing her that hiking it slowly with hundreds of stops to photograph wildflowers was how it was going to be, we compromised on doing it all in one day. Allowing for a 4kmph average (super speedy for me these days, especially in wildflower season), I figured it would take seven hours to complete, plus six hours of driving. Melina arrived at my place at 5am, deposited her dog Jarck into bed with Caris for cuddles, and we departed north. Driving through some of the thickest fog I'd ever seen in WA, the skies eventually cleared as we got past Cervantes, and we were soon at the car park raring to go.
Heading in an anti-clockwise direction, Melina charged on ahead while I hung back and scanned the edge of the trail for the numerous wildflowers that are found in this botanically rich part of Western Australia. A favourite location for fellow wildflower enthusiasts like myself, Lesueur National Park is home to over 900 species of plants, many of them only found here. Being August, it wasn't the peak of the peak time in Djilba but I was confident of seeing more than enough species to tickle my fancy. This first part leading to Mount Lesueur is full of different wildflowers, and in the shadow of the hills to the east, photographing the dew covered flowers took some extra time. Conscience of being with Melina and not wanting to slow up too much, we had some fun joking about this being the pace for the whole day but she eventually joined in the wildflower hunt, pointing out new colours and shapes. Early find along the sandy trail included Pink-flowered Hakea, Pepper and Salt, Handsome Wedge Peas and lots of Milkmaids.
When we weren't looking in the Kwongan heath for wildflowers, the views to the west and south of Mount Michaud and Mount Lesueur were really impressive. These flat-topped mesas remind me of a greener version of something you'd see in the American West, although much smaller. The Yonga Trail heads towards Mount Lesueur, as it shares the path with the Gairdner Loop and Mount Lesueur Walk, and the climb up to the summit is an optional side quest. Reaching the trail junction, Melina and I dropped our packs and headed along the path to reach the top of Mount Lesueur. A series of switchbacks takes you up the exposed north-eastern flank of the hill, with plenty of new wildflower finds keeping me a happy boi. The views from near the top are stunning, as you overlook the rest of the national park, along with admiring the weathered rock of this ancient laterite ridge. Reaching the flat-top section, you immediately head into a mass of Parrot Bush that blankets the summit, an amazing spectacle when in full bloom.
Following the trail through the prickly vegetation, these was enough room to avoid getting scratched up, and I was happy to see several other plants up here fighting for space amongst the Parrot Bush. Once you reach the flat section, it's a 300m walk to the trig point that marks the summit and also provides the best views looking west. With the Indian Ocean in the distance and the nearby farmland and heath, this is a pretty cool spot to spend a few minutes admiring the landscape. Melina was amused by the sign on the rusted metal frame that seemed to suggest that pushing your mate off the cliff wasn't acceptable. Agreeing that we wouldn't do that to each other, we headed back through the Parrot Bush and back down the hill. When we reached the exposed trail back down the hill, we noted the fog in the far distance that was slowly burning off in the morning sun. Back at the trail junction, we grabbed our packs and made our way towards where the Yonga Trail leaves the existing trails and heads into the wilderness of Lesueur National Park. Knowing there was a really good section ahead, we continued on and entered the first bit of Wandoo Woodlands.
Walking down into a little creek valley, this moment really struck me the first time as being a "this trail will be special" kind of moment. The second time around had the same magic, as we spotted the first Blue Lechenaultia of the day, along with Melina pointing out the first Cowslip Orchids. I had told her that one of the aims of today was to find lots of Spider Orchids but to her that was the same as telling her to look out for Whiz-wazzas, as she had no idea what they looked like. The Cowslips were a good reference as I said they were a similar size but generally white and more dainty. Rising up and over a Wandoo lined creek, I photographed the Gairdner Range Starbush, not knowing at the time what it was and that it's only found around the slopes of Mount Lesueur. Continuing on, the Wandoo through here is some of the best of the loop, eventually reaching a creek system that looks more like a sinkhole than a functioning creek. I believe there is only water here immediately after rains and the high sides of the creek is most likely caused by flash flooding than a gentle bit of rainfall.
This section is probably my least favourite as it passes through open woodland that I believe was used for grazing in the past, given the unnatural undergrowth and sparse look. It doesn't last long and eventually you are in nicer woodland, where I spotted my first Spider Orchid (a pale Blushing Spider Orchid). Over the years I think I've trained my brain to recognise shapes, colours and features very quickly, so when something a bit rarer like a Spider Orchid appears, it triggers me to stop and look properly. That's exactly what happened here, and I could show Melina what all the fuss was about. With an early find like that under my belt, I could relax and enjoy the walking a bit more, as we headed towards the old dam. It wasn't as full as last time I was here but is still a feature of the trail, if a little unnatural. Up ahead we had more great finds thanks to a Banded Greenhood, a White Spider Orchid, a nice clumping of Cowslip Orchids and the first Sugar Candy Orchid I've ever seen. The scenery through here is really nice as you get a good mix of Wandoo and views looking west to Mount Michuad.
Approaching the transition point between the Wandoo Woodland and the open Kwongan heath that will be home for the next couple of kilometres, I decided it was a good time to stop and apply sunscreen while we had shade. Creamed up and ready to go, the Wandoo disappeared and ahead was nothing but sandy tracks and low heathland that I was excited to explore. Outside of wildflower season, this would be a pretty lacklustre and barren landscape but visiting during the cooler months of the year, it would be home to a variety of stunning wildflowers that I was looking forward to photographing and then identifying when I got home on iNaturalist. Over the past couple of years, iNaturalist (kind of like Pokémon Go for nature enthusiasts) has added an extra dimension to my hikes as I become more interested in the biodiversity we have here in Western Australia. There is something really satisfying about cataloguing everything I find while out on my hikes, and it provides a great opportunity to learn about the natural world that we are lucky enough to visit. Melina was slowly getting the hang of this wildflower spotting but when I photographed her doing some natural pointing, she said that is a faux pas from her military background.
This exposed area sees you start a gentle climb through soft sand but I wasn't moving that fast to notice. There was plenty along the edge of the trail to keep me occupied including a Firewood Banksia in bloom, Cottonheads, Hovea, Scarlet Featherflowers, a Wooly Dragon (flower) and a little Western Heath Dragon (lizard) trying to get some morning sun. Spotting plenty of new species was good fun and as we climbed higher, the views over the rest of Lesueur National Park were just as impressive. I love a scene where from where you are standing all the way to the horizon is just natural landscapes, and this was a nice spot for it. A sea of muted greens, punctuated with the occasional Balga, with the bright blue sky above made for some lovely photos. Crossing a management track, the soft sand is eventually replaced by firmer laterite as you approach the top of the hill. More amazing views await you there, this time looking west and north, across to where you'll be hiking later on.
Heading down the hill, I was looking forward to getting back into the Wandoo Woodland and exploring the northern half of the circuit that has a much wilder feel to it. After seeing a few new varieties of flowers including my first Fringe Lily of the season, we entered the shade of the Wandoo. It was a welcome relief as the day was starting to warm up, and we were also welcomed by the local birdlife. Pink and Grey Galahs and Little Corellas were making a fair amount of noise when we approached, and this would continue throughout the day. The Wandoo sections are more like patches, with some exposed heathland walking mixed in but this just serves to make sure the hike never feels too monotonous. A fun sighting through here was the Fringed Bell, an upside-down red bulb of a flower that looks quite unique compared to other flowers along the trail. Joining a management track for a brief moment, it's a nice reminder that most of this trail is purpose built and they've kept the wide track walking to the bare minimum.
You exit the management track pretty soon and start along a couple of ups and downs that explore some small laterite cliffs. I remember last time this area was crawling with brightly coloured Verticordia flowers, and there were a few starting to flower when we passed through today. Starting one of the bigger climbs of the trail, there are some great views to be had when you look back at where you've come from, where you'll get ocean views again, along with looking to your right at where the hill extends upwards. Starting to get into our stride, the wildflowers through here weren't as numerous, so I could keep up a good pace that was agreeable with Melina. Twisting around the landscape, it seems like the trail is just meandering around, something that Caris did not enjoy last time we were here. I didn't mind as the scenery continues to be excellent, with a mix of Wandoo and exposed laterite combining to provide wonderful photo opportunities, along with the occasional view.
We did come across a kangaroo hiding in the undergrowth, and it stayed still long enough for me to snap a few photos before catching up with Melina. Descending down towards a valley, the trail scoots around the contour lines above the steep gullies and what looks like a cave system. The Wandoo through here is some of the thickest of the whole trail, with the creamy coloured trunks extending up the hill to your left, and into the valley below. When I first pictured hiking this trail, woodlands of this quality certainly didn't spring to mind, and driving along Indian Ocean Drive, I assume most people think that the area to the east is just a barren wasteland. The Grevillea through here were plentiful and I eventually settled on the species being Grevillea preissii when it came down to the identification part of writing up this trail. It was a favourite flower of mine throughout the day (Melina preferred the Blue Stars) and whenever a patch appeared, I was quite happy to photograph it again.
Climbing out of the valley, there is one medium sized hill ahead, before you start the flat walking into the campsite. The hill provided excellent views looking back to the two flat-topped mesas of Mount Lesueur and Mount Michaud, along with seeing the patchwork of vegetation that makes up Lesueur National Park. There were some fun finds towards the top of the hill with White Spider Orchids, another species of Grevillea and a Pink Candy Orchid (my first sighting). The conversation soon turned to when we were going to arrive at the campsite, as I couldn't remember if it was 14km or 16km into the circuit going anti-clockwise. Last time it did seem like we were never going to get into camp, and eventually arrived as the sun was setting. Around every corner I was saying "I think it isn't too much further" or "this looks familiar, it's just up ahead", which is about the most annoying thing you can do as a hiker because it never is just around the corner. Melina hadn't experienced my annoying habit of doing this, so didn't say anything when a campsite never appeared.
As we were approaching the campsite, we went from spotting Spider Orchids to spotting Spiders. It had been common throughout the morning for the first person to be on spiderweb duty, and we were constantly brushing off webs from our bodies. This time however, there were still spiders attached to the webs and Melina noticed one just in time. Add in a Christmas Jewel Spider (earliest I've seen one) and this was spider central for the hike. Eventually we did catch sight of the Yonga Campground, and it was nice to know there was a rest up ahead. Unsurprisingly there was no one here being the middle of the day, so we made our way to the shelter and dropped our bags. I had brought a couple of rolls for us to enjoy for lunch, and in the shade of the shelter, we tucked in. The campsite is positioned up on the hill and is a great spot to watch the sunset. The shelter and the tent platforms have to be booked via the DBCA website and I was hoping they had fixed the issues with the tent platforms (basically there is nowhere to tie your tent to) but based on comments I've seen online, it's still a problem.
While it would have been nice to stay, lunch was sufficient today, as we still had 12km to go until the end and a three hour drive back to Fremantle. Gathering our things, we departed the campsite, one I'll have to visit again soon. This being the northernmost part of the circuit, we would be heading in a southerly direction for most of the way back, making the photos look a little bit nicer given the sun would be on our backs. Leaving camp, the mood was good as we were more than halfway and the end felt much closer. The first part sees you head through mixed Wandoo and then an open section of heathland, with a green hill full of Balgas to your left. A small bump of a hill is dealt with quickly and then there is an enjoyable bit of woodland when you start the descent. Melina took offence to the trail markers that instead of pointing left or right to show the way, pointed straight down. To me that made perfect sense as you were heading downhill and I had a little chuckle at that. Given the trail is fairly obvious, I think this was a light hearted joke by the rangers marking the trail. At the bottom of the hill you reach a section of low vegetation that is a bit different to the heathland you walked through earlier.
A mass of sticks and branches blocking the edge of the trail guide you along as there are wide sections where there is no obvious path to follow if the sticks weren't there. Tunnels of Dwarf She-Oak are brief, before you return to open woodland and a more recognisable trail. Through here I found another fun find, my first ever Bee Orchid, one I'd not been expecting and was a pleasant surprise. There are a few spots along here where you are within the woodlands but get lovely views overlooking the interior of the park. More orchid finds continued, with another Spider Orchid and a Blue China Orchid. Exiting the woodland for the time being, you enter a long section through the exposed heathland. Climbing up a hill that seem way bigger than it actually is, near the top you end up rounding around the edge, where you get some lovely views looking across to the hills east of here. Descending down the hill, it's almost a straight line to the south for the rest of the way, and the end was starting to feel close.
Melina at this point was starting to get itchy feet and eventually shot off into the distance on a little trail run. I don't blame her and she did quite well to keep to my slow pace for the whole thing. I continued on, less concerned about the time it took to stop for wildflower photos, and also wondering if I should have given her the car keys after not seeing her in the distance. She eventually stopped in some shade and we entered the final section of woodland that leads to the last climb of the trail, which also happens to be one of the longest. The scenery through here is a great parting gift, with a mixture of hills, woodland and laterite all combining to provide a photogenic landscape. The new discoveries didn't stop through here thanks to a Ribbed Hakea, Round-fruit Banksia and Granite Boronia. As we made our way along the flats leading towards the final climb, I spotted what I thought was a parrot but turned out to be some kind of Hawk (still unidentified).
Back together for the last section, the rocks through here make for a nice exit, along with the towering Wandoo reaching up the hill. Melina's spotting skills were working a treat as she pointed out two Red Jewel Bugs, that may or may not have been having some special time. Leaving them in peace after being a creep and photographing them, we made our way up to where the Yonga Trail finishes and joins up with the wide vehicle track that forms part of the Gairdner Trail leading back to the car park. With only a short way to go, Melina bolted into the distance and I was free to photograph the views looking towards Mount Michaud. We had managed to complete the trail in good time, taking seven and a half hours including a lunch stop. Given I had taken about 900 photos in that time, I'd consider that pretty speedy by my standards. Getting changed into less sweaty clothes back at the car, we just had the three hour journey back to Fremantle. As we were driving out of the access road, I spotted a healthy clumping of Blushing Spider Orchids and couldn't resist stopping for more photos. Not a bad way to finish a thoroughly enjoyable hike.
Final Thoughts - While conceived as an overnight hike, the Yonga Trail can make a really enjoyable day hike if you give yourself enough time and have the fitness to be able to do it.
Having done it both ways, the experience is different but the enjoyment is just as good either way.
A big thanks goes out to DBCA for building the trail, and it's something that we could use a lot more of. The route is well thought out, doesn't get too same-same, and the single trail is really appreciated.
I recommend doing the Yonga Trail between April and October, with August and September being the peak months for wildflowers and orchids. The biodiversity found in Lesueur National Park is something to be celebrated, and having a long trail to explore the park is fantastic. I ended up logging 115 species of wildflowers, orchids, insects and birds, and I'm sure I missed a lot more.
This has jumped into the conversation of my favourite trails in WA after two visits here and I'm sure I'll be returning a few times over my twilight years.
Enjoy, and I hope you have as much fun as I did on the Yonga Trail.
If you've found this page or the website helpful and you want to show your support then consider making a small donation by visiting our Ko-fi page. You can give as little as a dollar with no sign-up required and everything will be put towards the website, creating new content and promoting the trail community.