Walpole to Booner Mundak
Munda Biddi Trail
Start
Walpole
Time
4-7 Hours
Finish
Booner Mundak Hut
Date Ridden
7th September 2021
Length
55.4km
Elevation
1129m
Traditional Custodians
Minang People
The Ride - With a brief stay in Walpole before a planned two nights at campsites, it had been a warm and enjoyable rest in this South Coast town. With all the closures of businesses down here due to staff shortages, there wasn't a cafe to have breakfast at while we were passing through. After packing up our bikes and saying goodbye to the owner of Tingle All Over, we set off into the middle of town to meet Aron's mum and partner for breakfast at the bakery. After a basic but enjoyable snack of a cheese and tomato toastie and coffee, we applied some sunscreen and said goodbye to Aron's mum and partner.
Today would see us climbing up into the Tingle forest around Valley of the Giants, meander around the Frankland River and then head north into the great vastness of Mount Frankland South National Park. The weather forecast was a sunny day in the mid 20s, which I wasn't too thrilled about given the thicker forests of the South West are much harder to photograph in bright sunshine. There would also be a lot of climbing in the first half of the day with some of the more infamous ascents of the whole trail (looking at you Boxall Road). Starting the Strava at the bakery instead of the Visitor Centre, I knew roughly where the trail exits town so took us towards Inlet Street and then left at Park Avenue but after not seeing a Munda Biddi marker yet, we checked the map to see where we needed to go. Turns out we should have been north of the highway and then the trail crosses over further east of town before heading along the Coalmine Beach Heritage Trail.
Eventually we found the trail and made our way along a familiar section, having hiked it back in 2019 when I started the Walpole to Frankland River day on the Bibbulmun Track. Following a vegetated corridor of compacted gravel, this makes for pleasant riding in the morning air and it wasn't long until we had reached the Coalmine Beach area. I was a bit bemused when the Munda Biddi markers point you along the road and away from the path leading you along the edge of the water but figured it might cut in a bit later. Unfortunately it doesn't but you do get to see the Nornalup Inlet after one of the parking areas as it takes you past a lookout shelter. Taking the opportunity to connect with the water after spending the past couple of weeks in the forest, it was looking a lot better than my previous visit (cold, wet and windy). With some pleasant views looking across the inlet, we both snapped some photos and moved on to the highway crossing. This marks the entry to the wonderful Karri and Tingle forest that will be home for the first half of the day.
Continuing to enjoy the "Dominion de Souza" (my podcast partner and his wife's maintenance sections), we started climbing up some switchbacks through the first impressive stand of Karri trees. This area had been burnt in the past couple of years and based off photos from The Long Ways Better, it is recovering nicely with the Karri trees having mostly stripped their burnt bark. The switchbacks certainly help to tackle the ascent but don't get used to them for the rest of the day as that's all folks. Joining the Bibbulmun Track once again, the romance is brief as the trail heads downhill towards the next uphill. This is really the story of the day as there is very little flat riding and you are either on a noticeable ascent or coming back down one. The nature of the forest changes as you reach another hill with the lush Karri forest replaced with a drier mix of She-Oak and dense heath, with the occasional larger tree. It was a nice change but the exposed nature of the trail meant I was starting to feel the heat of the day as we were directly facing the sun.
The climb was the first of the steep pinch climbs that you'll become familiar with over the course of the day and it may require coming off the bike to push. The wildflowers through here were nice with lots of Purple Flag dotting the more exposed and sandier sections and eventually we came across the crossing of the tourist road leading up to the Giant Tingle Tree (it's a 140m vertical ascent if you want to take the detour). Spotting a vehicle parked up on the other side, it turned out to be a DBCA ute and as I gently rode by, I gave the occupant in the front seat a scare. He had the cruisy job of reading the paper in the ute while the other guy was in a big digger clearing/grading Monastery Road that we were about to descend down. It was nice of them to clear and grade what can be a slippery road thanks to the mud being chewed up by 4x4s as they tackle the steep gradients. After about 1.5km of gently sloping terrain with one of the most impressive She-Oaks I've ever seen just off the road, we reached a turn-off onto some welcome single trail.
I was a little worried that this was going to be all along vehicle tracks through the Tingle forest and so was excited to get a more intimate experience. It was great to just pedal around the winding trail as it follows the contours of the terrain instead of going in straight lines up and over them. With the thick vegetation all around, this was a fun little tootle through the Karri and Tingle forest and pretty soon we were facing some lovely views looking down towards the Frankland River. A real feature and highlight of the day, the connection with the river was something I was hoping for a lot and these fleeting views were a good introduction. I took a few photos before joining Aron as we popped back onto Monastery Road once again for some of the flatter riding of the day. Still slightly elevated above the Frankland River, there were glimpses down below where the vegetation opened up and you could see the dark water. Adding a nice feature to the photos were some Kingia Australis that were growing near the banks of the river. Still on the lookout for Monastery Landing that I knew was between here and Sappers Bridge, we reached a sharp downhill followed by a steep uphill.
As I started to pedal hard to conserve momentum going back up the hill, I noticed some signage to my right and this appeared to be Monastery Landing. I waited for Aron so I could shout at him to make the turn and thankfully he heard me in time. With the bright and sunny conditions continuing, this picturesque location wouldn't be looking as good as it could be thanks to the harsh lighting. Nonetheless we parked up the bikes and ventured down to the jetty where we encountered a couple in a dinghy coming towards us. They moored up at the jetty and we had a long chat about the trail and how we had found it so far (the man had done several trips on the Munda Biddi). He really liked to talk this guy and conscious of the time, especially with big hills to come, we excused ourselves and headed back to our bikes. Unfortunately from Monastery Landing there is a medium puppa climb with some sharp gradients to contend with so after a bit of walking we were at the top.
From here we were treated with a nice downhill as you once again join up with the Bibbulmun Track. Seeing the waugyl sparked a memory of this place from my last visit and I remember the valley views being particularly memorable and this stretch a bit meditative. With bright lighting and a fast downhill on the bike, the experience was chalk and cheese and at the bottom of the hill, the Munda Biddi leaves the Bibbulmun. Here we ran into a solo end to ender heading the other way and he was the first rider we had run into doing a full E2E. After a chat about the heat and the trail, we both moved on and up ahead for us was Sappers Bridge. I had been monitoring this section quite closely as heavy winter rains had made the bridge unpassable (there was head high foam over the bridge at the height of the flooding). We were fortunate enough to ride through just after the diversion was lifted and there were still ground crews putting in temporary measures to allow riders and walkers to pass while they fixed the damage. So I didn't disturb them, I took a few quick photos and we headed up the hill towards an oddity on both the Munda Biddi and Bibbulmun, Brainy Cut Off.
I'm not sure why the road has been named this but I did know this was going to be a climb and the first of a few leading up to the Valley of the Giants. Over the next 12km we would ascend 200m with three climbs of note providing some challenging riding. Brainy Cut Off was the first but the gradients were gentle enough that I could get into a rhythm and just pedal. At the top I noticed an old wooden structure just off the road and decided to check it out while I waited for Aron. It was a fun little explore with nearby farmland providing a change but I was soon on the bike to descend down towards the start of the second climb. This one is notorious with some steep gradients that maintain about 15% in a couple of sections. The Boxhall Road climb is the worst of the day with an elevation gain of 150m over 2.8km of continuous uphill. Switching between riding and pushing my bike, this challenge was fuelled by Starburst and Staminade as I made my way up. In the moment it was tough and the heat of the day didn't help but when I finally reached the top, there was a weight lifted off my shoulders. The expectation of the climbing had given me some mild anxiety, along with the heat, so it was nice to have the majority of them over with and I could enjoy the rest of the day as it came.
Knowing Aron would be a while walking up the climbs, I pedalled on and enjoyed a lovely downhill that cooled my sweaty self off significantly. The final part of the total climb sees you turn onto Twin Creek Road and after the downhill run, the thick forest transitions to burnt forest on one side and then stunted plains when the road surface becomes sandier. At the bottom of the hill, I found a shady section of the road to sit down on while I waited for Aron. This was a pleasant little break where I refuelled, checked the map and started dreaming of an ice cream at the Valley of the Giants. The final big climb of the Tingle Forest would be split in two thanks to our side quest to Valley of the Giants so when Aron arrived, we geared up for the push into the popular tourist spot. Leaving the sandy and exposed Twin Creek Road, you turn right onto Howe Road as it heads back into the forest for the some more climbing. The gentle gradients make the climbing a breeze compared to Boxhall Road and the Tingle forest you are surrounded by livens up the riding. Crossing the paved road that leads to Valley of the Giants, it wouldn't be long until our lunch break and the big drawcard of this area.
Eventually reaching a sign that points you either down the Munda Biddi as it continues towards Booner Mundak or up the road, we took the side trip. Filled with tourists as we arrived, I parked up my bike near the Gift Shop while I waited for Aron and thought I would get in a loop on the Tree Top Walk before having lunch (entry fees apply). Having done this many times over the years, it's always a fun experience to be among the canopy of the Tingle Forest and get those stunning views. The walk was relatively empty when I was up there so I got some people-less photos of the impressive metal walkway. Finishing my walk in the canopy, I joined Aron on the benches outside the education centre and we tucked into some lunch. I had made Salmon and Salad Rolls that morning and one of them went down an absolute treat (I saved the other for dinner that night) along with a kombucha from the gift shop. With 24km still to ride and it getting towards 1:30pm, I opted not to explore the Ancient Empire Walk that leaves from the Gift Shop. Packing up the bikes, from here it would be the second half of the long climb and a long descent as we headed north into the unknown.
Reaching the Munda Biddi again, I stopped to make sure Aron went the right way and he completely sailed past where I was. I yelled out at the top of my voice and after a while he had returned to continue on the right direction. This final part of the climb was really enjoyable with rested legs and the best Tingle forest of the entire day. There were plenty of thick boi examples to admire as we tootled past and it was a great send off to this unique forest type. At the top of the climb there is a granite platform to the right of the road and I forgot that this contained a small boardwalk section that my podcast partner found on his travels through here. I was content with a photo at the time as we rode on towards a fun but brief descent of over 200m. I find the descents comical on the Munda Biddi as you work so hard climbing up the hills and the rewards are so brief as you plummet down at great speed. The forest through here transitioned away from the Karri and Tingle towards Marri and Jarrah as we exited the boundaries of the national park and entered cow country.
For about 2km you travel along back country roads through pretty idyllic farmland and the abrupt change felt refreshing. The sunshine was no longer a problem for photos as the wide green vistas looked much nicer and the occasional glimpse looking back to the hills reminded me of what we'd accomplished so far. With gentle terrain to roll along and some livestock to keep us company, this was an enjoyable stretch of riding as we approached the Valley of the Giants Olive Farm and Winery. Aron and I aren't olive eaters and only I'm a wine drinker so we opted not to stop in for a visit and instead continued on into the Jarrah and Marri forest up ahead. Now heading north, I was intrigued by this area on the map as the satellite view suggests that there is an abundance of nothingness out here and that was alright by me. From here until the Booner Mundak Campsite, we would mostly be on wide roads but the changing landscape meant there was always something new to see around every corner or over every hill.
It wasn't flat by any stretch of the imagination with lots of little hills making up part of a longer upward trajectory so there was never a lack of motivation caused by endless horizons. With the forest being quite thick early on, I was on the hunt for wildflowers and the whole journey to the campsite provided a bounty for me to photograph. With the big hills gone and the prospect of reaching camp in just over an hour, the pace through here was higher than our average for the trip, helped out by the compact gravel roads. While the views were sometimes a bit samey on straighter sections of road, I liked the feeling of heading out into the wilderness. You wouldn't know it as you ride along but the road runs pretty much parallel to the Bow River for a long time. I understand from a cost perspective why single track wasn't built closer to the river but hopefully in the future they can take sections off Middle Road to break up the constant road riding. This is done for the briefest of periods as we approached the first of two bridge crossings with a completely redundant cycling only bridge built right next to the road bridge.
There would never be enough traffic that you would feel unsafe for the 20m bridge crossing to warrant a separate bridge so I wonder what the thinking was with that one. After crossing on the road bridge, Aron made a good observation, pointing out a small danger noodle in the middle of the road. It wasn't too interested in moving away so I got a good photo of it and the unique markings are not ones I've seen on a snake in WA before (not that I've been close to many in the wild). Doing a bit of research, it may actually have been a Common Scaly-Foot Legless Lizard instead but feel free to correct me in the comments section. Further along there is another road bridge but this time the trail takes you off onto some single trail and over a smaller bridge to the east. This would have been an enjoyable change apart from the fallen tree that made us stop and heave our bikes over. Reaching Middle Road again, we had a bit of a chuckle at the shortcut being the longer route but it was a pleasant distraction. With the final 7km left to go, from here I decided to stretch my legs and ride off on my own until the campsite.
The scenery continued to be amazing with the height of the surrounding trees varying greatly depending on the elevation. The thicker sections were welcomed with the shade they provided but I also enjoyed the lower parts where the heathland was the dominant vegetation. My favourite part was reaching the tops of the little hills and staring out towards the horizon at the rolling hills ahead. After the second or third occurrence it just felt like I was in the middle of nowhere. While the road takes away some of that mystic, we hadn't seen a soul since leaving the Valley of the Giants. Loving the freedom of riding through the open country, I was having great fun photographing wildflowers on the side of the road and the endless views ahead. Aron would remark later at camp that he stopped following my tyre tracks in the sandy sections as quite often they would just veer off to the side and stop at a wildflower (sorry Aron). With a podcast to keep me company, I had one last medium puppa hill to climb before I reached camp. The gentle gradient meant it was an easier ascent that most of what we had tackled today and just after the summit I was happy to see the campsite sign. Riding along the single trail leading into camp I had a feeling that there were people already there but I arrived to find the place unsurprisingly empty given our last three weeks of campsite experiences.
I parked up and set about unloading, getting changed into the board shorts I had brought to use at Pemby Pool. With the warm weather, it was nice to just walk around camp in shorts and a t-shirt instead of the warm gear we needed throughout the trip. Aron soon arrived and after a while we both agreed that this was an excellent spot for a campsite. The map suggested we were near a lake but I think it would only be an area that is seasonally flooded in very wet years. After setting up our sleeping gear on opposite sides of the shelter, we set about getting our dinner things organised. Late afternoon arrived and we heard a noise coming from the entrance and sure enough, we were joined by two riders coming from the other direction. They had ridden a double section from Denmark so were pretty tired after travelling over 100kmbut were in good spirits. A young couple (I'm terrible for this but I only remember Courtney's name), they were on nice looking gravel bikes and looking to complete the trail within two weeks. As coincidence would have it, I bumped into them near The Dell in Kalamunda as they were finishing their E2E and I was out on a ride for pleasure.
We chatted over the course of the afternoon as everyone setup for the evening and they were curious to hear about what the trail was like as they headed north. Right before settling down for dinner I went on a tour of the campsite with my camera as there is a maze of tent sites that are brilliantly redundant given the shelter sleeps about 20 people and this is a remote location. I was happy to see a lot of wildflowers around with the highlight being a lone Silky Blue Orchid hiding in the undergrowth. As sunset approached, the bird life got more vocal and the soft colour palette of orange, green and purple on the distant hills was a peaceful finish to what had been a great day. While eating dinner and enjoying a game or two of Yahtzee, the mozzies got too much and we headed to bed early. With clear skies that night, I emerged from my tent around 8:30pm to take some photos of the Milky Way overhead before it dipped too low on the horizon. Not bringing my tripod, I was propping my camera up against my plastic food container and hoping for the best as I did some light painting on the nearby Banksia Trees. I think the results weren't too bad considering and this is a fantastic spot for capturing the night sky.
Final Thoughts - What a day!!! While the first week heading out of Mundaring is often billed as the hardest part, the hills around Walpole are no joke.
The last three days had involved quite a bit of climbing with two of those days reaching over 1000m of vertical distance travelled. This is made much easier by the quality of the scenery through the lovely Tingle forest.
This is definitely a day of two halves with an enjoyable run up to Valley of the Giants and then the ride north into the wilderness.
The Munda Biddi had the option to head relatively close to the coast by utilising the Denmark-Nornalup Heritage Trail and I'm glad they chose to take the trail inland.
With the boggy and hilly dune system that covers the stretch between Walpole and Denmark, getting good ocean views would be quite a challenge for cyclists and I imagine any amount of beach riding would not be very much fun for fully loaded bikepackers, let alone gravel bike riders with their skinny tyres.
Booner Mundak is a special campsite, out in the middle of nowhere and in a great location for wildflowers and clear skies. If it wasn't for the mozzies then this would be right up there for my favourite campsite on the whole trail.
Three sections left and the end was within reach. What a great finishing stretch to what had been an amazing journey so far.
Get out there and experience it!!!
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