Yirra Kartta to Kwokralup Beela
Munda Biddi Trail
Start
Yirra Kartta Hut
Time
4-8 Hours
Finish
Kwokralup Beela Hut
Date Ridden
5th September 2021
Length
58.6km
Elevation
1227m
Traditional Custodians
Minang People
The Ride - Staying in our first campsite since just before Donnybrook (Nglang Boodja), the afternoon at Yirra Kartta was a refreshing return to the camping aspect of the Munda Biddi Trail. The granite dome here is one of the highlights of the whole track and we enjoyed a few trips up and down over the course of the evening and night (see last post for many photos). It was my plan to wake up early and get up there for sunrise but getting out of my sleeping bag once my alarm went off was a challenge after a late night trip to shoot the Milky Way. After debating with myself about leaving the comfort of my little cocoon, I came to the conclusion that I might not be here for a while so I would make the most of the time that is given to me.
Scrambling up the side of the granite, still yawning, the sun had been up for just under an hour and the skies were starting to turn a vivid blue. While it wasn't Mount Chance levels of fairy floss beauty, there was the tail end of a slight fog rolling around the forest that looked pretty cool when the morning god rays streamed through. I sat on the cool granite for a while, reflecting on the experience so far and thinking about the day ahead that would involve a bit of climbing but through an area that I absolutely adore from all my previous visits to the South West. Feeling a bit chilly, I headed back down to see if Aron was awake yet and to get back into my sleeping bag to warm up. Based on the time stamps on my photos and our leaving time, I think I must have stayed in bed for a good amount of time as we didn't end up leaving camp until just before 9am. I had mapped this day out as being about 56km (with the optional side trip included) and a lot of climbing so with our typical average speed so far plus breaks, it would be another late arrival into camp.
Enjoying a brew and Clif Bar for breakfast, we eventually got going and my morning weather check revealed that perhaps for one day we weren't going to get rained on. Leaving camp via the single trail that Aron had come in on the previous afternoon, we soon joined Bull Road as it continues through the forest. While not overly pleased to be riding on similar roads that we experienced for most of the previous day, this stretch did allow for a different perspective of the granite dome as we rode by. These first few kilometres weren't anything to write home about with wide vehicle tracks at least allowing for a faster pace when I wasn't stopping to photograph the various wildflowers along the edge of the trail. Arriving at the end of the vehicle track riding, you enter the forest and start cycling along some single track that thanks to the vegetation cover, provided a cool change. It isn't long before things open up again and you are presented with these glorious vistas as the trail enters the Munda Biddi equivalent of the Pingerup Plains.
The infamous Pingerup Plains on the Bibbulmun Track is an area of low lying ground that gets seasonally flooded in winter and spring but is a unique landscape to experience. The naturally occurring grassy plains provide this vast expanse that is wonderful to walk through for days on end with the trail linking with small islands of forest. I understand why the Munda Biddi avoids the bulk of the plains to the south as the flooding can reach thigh to waist deep for some walkers and this would be a disaster for Munda Biddi riders (may have to pack the snorkel). It's nice that we get at least a little taster of this terrain type and the raised single track meant that the bike stayed relatively dry. I love the big sky feeling you get here and was hoping that it would last for longer than it did but after turning to the left, I could see the forest ahead and knew it would be coming to an end. While riding through it wasn't obvious but checking the map later on, to your left as you ride along is a small airstrip.
Entering the forest once again, there is a short ride through the thick vegetation before you reach the South Western Highway crossing. This is really the only way to reach Walpole from the Pemberton/Manjimup direction and I imagine it would be a bit of a shock to passing travellers to see someone pop out of the bush on their bike. After enjoying a few metres of paved road, you head back into the forest for a 15km section of riding leading to what I had planned as the lunch stop at Fernhook Falls. Initially riding along some pleasant single trail, the regrowth forest through here was quite enjoyable. Always watching out for different wildflowers and fungi, I was a bit spoilt for choice as you can see in the gallery above (not everything made the cut). The forest type kept changing as we tootled along with the mixed Marri/Jarrah being replaced with the smoothed bark Karri. With the undergrowth being pretty thick in places, I was happy when I spotted out of the corner of my eye some Snail Orchids loving life on a fallen log.
Aron caught up to me at this stage and gave me a funny look as I had ditched the bike and was on all fours trying to photograph these tiny little orchids. I had seen a good clump of them hiding under a rock at the top of the nearby Mount Pingerup while on my 2020 Road Trip and it was nice to see them again (although this was the second sighting on the Munda Biddi with some found just after Donnybrook). While the elevation change between the highway and Fernhook Falls is minimal, this whole section felt like you were either going up a long hill or going down a steep descent. Utilising old rail form helps with the climbing and some sections were nice and enjoyable thanks to being able to find a rhythm and pedal along admiring the forest. I made a mental note that some longer, less steep downhills would have been nice as it always seemed that you just plummeted down a quick drop towards a creek crossing. All in all, the riding wasn't too bad and the creek crossing provided a nice rest stop to watch the water for a while.
This section did seem to drag on a bit, most likely because I was really looking forward to reaching Fernhook Falls, a spot I had a really good time at when I visited in 2020. Making progress much slower was the debris that was all over the track towards the latter stages of the single track. We had bumped into a group of three riders on our travels to Yirra Kartta the day before (completely forgot about that interaction until writing this up) and they mentioned that DBCA had been out here to clear some fallen trees. I guess while they were at it, they decided to trim the adjacent vegetation to the trail but had left it strewn about the place. The result was that I ended up stopping about half a dozen times to pull branches out of my rear derailleur. I appreciate the effort they made to clear some trees, I think the stops to pull out the branches equalled out the time it would have taken to lift my bike over a few fallen trunks. Reaching Ordnance Road, the single track ended and after passing through a sandy area, we would soon be staring at a sign for the winter diversion to Fernhook Falls.
Wanting to visit Fernhook Falls no matter what the summer/winter route was, I was intrigued to find out the summer route skips Fernhook Falls altogether. Given that the summer route was closed, it had no bearing on my plans so we rode along the wide Beardmore Road, up a small hill to the entrance to the Fernhook Falls car park. Beardmore Road is frequented by tourist traffic heading here and further along to Mount Frankland so be aware that you will most likely have cars rushing past. Arriving at the undercover area at Fernhook Falls that contains some seating and BBQ facilities, we parked up the bikes and wandered down to the walk trail connecting this area to the main part of the falls. It's a really nice walk and the views overlooking the bridge and rapids had improved since my last visit in 2020. There was a muppet trying to win the Darwin Award by scrambling out to an exposed rock right in front of the rapids that we both remarked was being a bit of a dickhead.
Heading down to the rocks on the edge of the river (which is the Deep River if you're interested), we both found a nice spot overlooking the fast flowing water to enjoy our lunch. Given the record rains we received in July, it wasn't surprising to see the water levels much higher than my previous visit (that was in October 2020). The cappuccino froth was everywhere in the downstream sections and it was looked like it was snowing when a strong gust of wind blew it everywhere. Being one of two idyllic river locations that you will experience today, it's just a nice place to be. Fernhook Falls is also a camping spot so if you wanted to break the Northcliffe to Walpole section of the track into two days then you can stay here as the lone night (camping fees do apply). With a good poke around plus a snack, I told Aron I would meet him back at the bikes as I wanted to check out Rowell's Pool that is a short walk from the main part of Fernhook Falls. A calmer spot to have a swim, the icy cold waters didn't look inviting but made for a great photo instead.
Getting back onto Beardmore Road, the trail continues along the well trafficked gravel road as it uses the bridge over the falls to cross Deep River. It provides yet another cool vantage point to take in Fernhook Falls and would make for a lovely goodbye to this special place. Soon after the bridge you are pointed into the forest by the Munda Biddi markers and this marks the start of a lot of climbing. For about 16km (longer if you take the side trip up to Mount Frankland) you are heading up towards the heavens but for the first dozen kilometres the gradients are about as gentle as a warm hug from nanna. Riding along some single trail providing some views looking down towards Fernhook Falls, you soon switch onto an old vehicle track that eventually links back up to Beardmore Road if like me you don't notice the marker and keep powering up the hill. Joining the proper track again and having a laugh with Aron about my mishap, we soldiered on past tadpole filled puddles.
The wildflowers along here continued to be excellent with some of the first Yellow Flags of the trip providing something new, along with some Grevillea and Wattle. Rather than being a straight line all the way up the hill, you zig-zag around through here, utilising a series of old vehicle tracks and making it seem like you're never heading in the same direction for long. The landscape also changes a bit as you move along with the stunted forest being replaced with something more substantial and this is where we came across another fallen tree. It looked like there had been a path forged around it so we bashed through there and continued on where we found that DBCA had also been in this area and done a little pruning. Much like the section before Fernhook Falls, the debris was causing some issues and after getting a branch stuck for about the tenth time that day, I decided to take a photo of what was stopping me frequently. Eventually it cleared up somewhat as the forest started to thin and we entered one of the nicest sections of the whole day.
Popping out onto more open plains, the combination of blue skies, white fluffy clouds and the surrounding vastness was a delight to ride through. There's something about knowing there is nothing about but wilderness that provides a sense of calm to me and this spot did just that. The sandy trail looked like it might cause some issues with traction but it felt no different to the compact gravel we had been on for most of the day. The occasional stunted tree provided a Savannah feel to the section and the distant hills added to the drama of the landscape, mostly because I knew there was some more serious climbing further on. Trying to figure out if one of the hills was Mount Frankland, I figured the biggest and closest ones weren't it given their short proximity to where we were. As I reached the turn in the track, I spotted a bit of movement on the edge of the track and the familiar black shape of a danger noodle lurking in the sand. Given the warmth of the day, I had warned Aron as we entered this section that there might be snakes around and sure enough we had our first sighting of the journey.
Given it was still early in the season, it wasn't too lively and I managed to get a couple of photos before it decided to sliver off into the protection of the grasses. Buoyed by the sighting, we pressed on and finished the last of the open plains riding as the trail headed back into the forest. Keeping an eye out for more nope ropes, we didn't have any luck so I had to be content with some lovely Paperbarks and a lone Grass Tree. Entering one of the islands of forest, the single track continued and the shade of the canopy was a relief after the exposed riding. Dawdling along through here, we reached a small footbridge as it provides safe passage over the Lyndon River and we soon reached Dawson Road that would mark a return to the vehicle track riding. This would be the last time I would see Aron until I arrived back at camp thanks to my planned detour up to Mount Frankland and a navigational error that I will talk about later. For now I was concentrating on riding and enjoying this lovely stretch of forest that contained some older trees that looked quite characterful.
Dawson Road is a bit of a means to an end, being used to link the plains area to the Karri forest near Mount Frankland. Parts of it are a Forest Conservation Area so that was enjoyable to see, along with a lone Swamp Bottlebrush, a plant I loved seeing on my Northcliffe to Walpole hike in June of 2018 (it usually only flowers between autumn and winter). Wondering when the serious climbing was going to begin, my question was answered after you cross Angrove Road and you get the first hints of the Karri forest. With the warmth of the afternoon setting in, this was going to be one of the toughest sections of the day so instead of waiting for Aron to catch up, I said to myself that I would wait for him at the top. After reaching about halfway up the first really serious climb of the day where the gradient at times was around 10%, I was happy to see the trail turn off the road and head up a series of switchbacks. It makes the climbing seem easier and I was now engulfed by what looked like regrowth Karri forest as I tackled the second part of the climb. Reaching the top of the climb a little puffed, sweaty and warm, I stopped for a drink and admired the stunning greenery of what looked like Sword Grass.
Much to my delight, there was a small downhill to enjoy here and the feeling of the air rushing over my damp clothing was a big relief. Entering more of a natural looking Karri forest with thicker trees, this was the beginning of a really nice section. I popped out onto the crossing of Beardmore Road and unsure of which direction to go (the marker buried in the undergrowth wasn't very helpful), I consulted the map. Getting my wires crossed, I started heading in the wrong direction along Beardmore Road and after a couple of kilometres of not seeing a trail marker, I realised something was wrong. Seeing the error of my ways, I doubled back and eventually found the marker pointing me off towards Mount Frankland Road. I waited here for Aron, thinking that he might be climbing still but after a ten minute break and no Aron, I moved on. Seeing the sign for Mount Frankland, I did at this point ponder not doing the side trip but again, I was here so why not. As the trail heads off the main tourist road and onto New Chum Road, I picked this location as the spot to drop my bags behind a Karri tree, not realising the easier option is further down the hill at Copeland Road.
Leaving everything but my drink bottles on the bike, I was expecting to power up the hill in no time. Heading down Mount Frankland Road, I was perplexed that I was heading downhill that scrubbed off about 70m of elevation and I realised that I would have to climb back up this hill once I was finished to retrieve my gear. That threw me off mentally and the climb up to Mount Frankland that ended up being 160m really took it out of me. Arriving at the familiar car park and letting out a sigh of relief, I could relax now while I hiked up a further 90m in elevation to the summit. Not having the time at this stage to do the full Caldyanup Trail around the base of Mount Frankland, I settled on the shorter path up to the summit instead. Last time I was here, it was late in the day, drizzling and a bit moody so I was happy that I would be getting clear skies. The hike up wasn't much easier than the ride to the car park but knowing the great views were close, I pressed on up the stairs and metal ladder. The final push up to the top of the granite dome meant I could relax and enjoy the 360 degree views overlooking the Walpole Wilderness. It's a really special spot that I always love visiting when I'm in the area and with the whole summit to myself, I took some time to be present and soak in the views.
There are plenty of features to see from up here including the surrounding granite domes, the ocean and Walpole to the south and the mountain ranges to the east. With it being around 3:30pm and still 14km to ride until I reached camp, I gave Caris a quick call to check in before heading back down to where my bike was parked. The downhill start was a welcome start and it was be a 240m drop down to the campsite over the remaining 14km. Hitting a max speed of 53.6km down Mount Frankland Road, I was soon faced with the medium hill I had descended earlier. After a bit of walking up the steeper bits, I arrived at the Karri tree I had chosen to hide my gear behind and found it all still there. From here there was a little up and down before the final downhill run into camp. The forest was looking nice through this final stretch with the afternoon light streaming through the canopy. I reached the turnoff at Copeland Road that if I was paying more attention to the map earlier, I would have taken instead of trundling down the tourist road to Mount Frankland.
Pedalling on, I reached the start of the big downhill and given my earlier indiscretion going the wrong way on Beardmore Road, I checked the map one last time to make sure this downhill was the right way. It was so I plummeted down at maximum speed looking for the turnoff to the campsite. Spotting a ute parked up near the entrance, I was worried we would be joined by car campers but as I finished the short but enjoyable spur trail into camp, I found Aron talking with the maintenance volunteers for this section. Happy to be at camp finally and Aron relieved he didn't have to go look for me, I regaled everyone about my little side quests. We thanked the volunteers as they left for the day (they are the lifeblood of trails like this) and Aron suggested a short walk down to the banks of the Frankland River. I had been looking forward to staying at this campsite so had to make the most of the remaining light. The walk to the river is worth it and we found a granite platform to sit on and have some quiet time watching the river. Playing around with some long exposure shots, it was a nice place to unwind after a long day in the saddle. With a short day tomorrow, I could get some rest and look forward to a meal in town.
Final Thoughts - What a day, what a day. From near sunrise chills on top of a granite dome to big climbs up into the Karri forest and towards one of the biggest granite domes in the area.
With a couple of popular tourist spots along the route (one optional), this still feels like a day riding in the wilderness. With long stretches of single trail, some varied terrain and those big open views, there was a lot to enjoy.
I don't regret my decision to take the side quest to Mount Frankland, although in the moment my quads were disagreeing with me, and if you have the energy then definitely factor it in.
A late start meant I didn't get to spend as much time at Kwokralup Beela as I wanted to but it was nice just to hang out by the river and unwind from the day. It will be a spot I return to in the future for some quiet time in the middle of nowhere.
Get out there and experience it!!!
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