Cradle Mountain
Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park
Directions - Cradle Mountain is located two hours west of Launceston in the Central Highlands of Tasmania. Take Bass Highway out of the city until you reach Railton Road, then take a left and continue following the signs for Cradle Mountain as you pass through Sheffield, cross the River Forth and climb back up towards the final turn-off taking you towards the Visitor Centre. Parts of the drive are tight and twisty, and care should be taken in inclement weather. The Cradle Mountain Summit Walk starts at the Dove Lake Viewing Shelter, reached by taking one of the frequent shuttle buses from the Visitor Centre (ticket required).
The Hike - As one of the most iconic Australian day hikes, Cradle Mountain is a destination that I was really looking forward to visiting as part of a summer holiday to Tasmania at the end of 2023. Booked in to do the Overland Track to start 2024, I gave myself a few days beforehand to explore the Great Western Tiers, with a day out to Cradle Mountain to tackle the summit hike, just in case I got some bad weather on day one of the Overland Track. Staying in the lovely little town of Deloraine, I was monitoring the weather forecast closely and this day was going to be the best of the three days I had here.
With Mountain Forecast showing maybe half a day of semi-clear conditions, my aim was to get to the Cradle Mountain Visitor Centre close to opening and catch one of the first shuttle buses down to Dove Lake. Despite being mid summer, it was a cold morning as I drove through the farmland and forests of northern Tasmania, enjoying the twisty roads and mountain views. Reaching the visitor centre car park, it was a frosty 6 degrees, and wouldn't be getting much warmer as the day went on. Being the height of the holiday period, it was filling up quickly with people thinking the same as me, and after gathering my things together, I made my way inside the impressive visitor centre to purchase my bus pass. The lady who served me had the look of someone who had dealt with too many tourists, as she asked me my plans for the day. It's completely understandable, as a bit of a scare down here might stop someone attempting something they aren't prepared for near the summit, and save the rangers from organising a rescue that could have been avoided.
Armed with my bus pass and a brochure, I walked down and joined the line of eager beavers ready to be shuttled down the narrow road leading to Dove Lake. The drivers are very knowledgeable and most will give you a little commentary about the area and what you might see. Arriving at Dove Lake, a series of building that can only be described as wonderfully brutalistic awaits you. Built in 2022, I had a good search for a Bond villain but they must have been holidaying in their dormant volcano today. On a serious note, it's a wonderful building, with plenty of information about the area, and quiet viewing areas where you can enjoy the stunning views away from the harsh elements that this part of Tasmania is known for. Leaving the building, I headed down the path towards the edge of the lake to begin my hike up to the sixth highest peak in Tasmania. With grey skies overhead, Dove Lake wasn't looking like the pictures you see on Instagram but that was fine, I was here for Cradle Mountain.
Even that wasn't looking very promising, as the iconic outline you can see from the shores of Dove Lake had some cloud cover hanging around the top. If I've learned anything over the years, it's that things can change quickly in the mountains, so I would hike up and see how things were looking closer to the summit. The path I was taking today would see me utilise a number of different tracks to reach the summit, with the first leg being on the Dove Lake Circuit. Rising up a small hill, you get views overlooking Dove Lake and the popular boat house, before entering a section of head high vegetation as you turn off the Dove Lake Circuit and join the Lake Lilla Track. With no shortage of alpine lakes up here, you soon get sweeping views across Lake Lilla, before descending down to the edge of the lake, where you get a picturesque scene looking across the water to Wombat Peak in the distance. Crossing a small creek that flows out of Lake Lilla and down towards the Dove River, the boardwalk is a great place to stop for photos (be mindful of other hikers as it's narrow).
Reaching another track junction, the familiar Tas Parks blue signs point you in the right direction, taking a left turn to join the Wombat Pool Track. This is the start of the proper climbing that will see you ascend 300m vertically up to Marions Lookout, a popular turnaround point for those that don't have the fitness or confidence to do the full Class 5 summit hike to Cradle Mountain but still want great views. Starting to climb the staircase leading up to Wombat Pool, patches of blue sky were keeping my hopes high, but I still had a long way to go yet. Spotting my first Pandani for the day brought a smile to my face, and it wasn't long before this first little pinch climb was over. With views over Wombat Pool, the characterful Pencil Pines found on the edge of the water give this idyllic spot a great deal of charm. Not spotting any wombats yet, I was hoping for some on the alpine fields leading towards Cradle Mountain. There is a little wooden platform on the edge of Wombat Pool, and it's a great place to stop and admire the stunning scenery you can see from here.
Leaving Wombat Pool, the next little climb was waiting, a short burst up to a lookout where you'll get views looking back over Lake Lilla and Dove Lake. Walking along a relatively flat section, the track takes you towards a patch of forest but never quite enters the cover of the trees. In the grass lining the edge of the trail I spotted something curious, what looked like a Swamp Sun Orchid. Given the chilly conditions and lack of sun, I don't blame it for not opening this morning. Starting to climb again, it felt good to be out in the alpine air, and to be getting closer to Marions Lookout. Reaching another little plateau, the scenery kept getting better, as you had the views overlooking Crater Lake to your right, and looking back down at Dove Lake to your left, with the new visitor buildings providing a good reference to how far you've climbed. This is where the Overland Track joins up with the Wombat Pool Track and it now just labeled the Overland Track on the maps.
With just a hint of sun peaking through the clouds, parts of Crater Lake and Crater Peak were being illuminated in bright light. This didn't last long but I managed to get a couple of photos in before darkness, my old friend, returned. With what I assumed was Marions Lookout ahead, I ventured towards a well talked about spot along the hike to Cradle Mountain, the chain assisted climb. A steep-ish section with rocky steps, a series of chains have been installed to help people get up and down the slippery when wet rocks. This does cause a bottleneck during busy periods, as I found out on the way back down, but it's better than the alternative of people using the vegetation to pull themselves up, plus it helps to avoid people slipping. After waiting for a few people, it was my turn, and it wasn't too bad, much easier than when I came through a few days later with a 19kg pack on my back in warmer weather. At the top you are greeted with more great views overlooking Crater Lake and Dove Lake, with distant mountains really peaking my interest.
Another small climb and I was staring at a wooden sign for Marions Lookout, a welcome relief, as that meant the climbing was over for a while. At 1223m ASL, this would normally be a pretty high peak for Australia, but in the Central Highlands of Tassie, it was just a pretty spot to admire the epic scenery around here. Perched on the edge of the cliff, the flat and rocky area allows you to explore a range of different vistas, from looking back at the Dove Lake Visitor Centre, to my favourite, the view of the southern end of Dove Lake mixed with the jagged peaks of Weindorfers Tower and Cradle Mountain. There were a few intrepid hikers here, enjoying a break while soaking in the views, and all hoping that the clouds over the summit shifted by the time they got up there. The local Currawongs were hanging about, extremely smart birds that have no problems unzipping packs and stealing food, so much so that cable ties and carabiners are recommended gear on the Overland Track when you leave your pack for side trips.
With so many tourists visiting this spot, they know it's prime location for snacks, and are pretty brazen about how close they get to you (good for photos at least). Wanting to get to the summit before the weather was predicted to get worse in the afternoon, I put my pack back on and set off. After a little climb up a white quartzite rise, you enter a different environment from what you've been hiking in. The alpine heath felt like you were leaving the touristy part of the park behind and entering somewhere special. Switching between the bright quartzite path and boardwalk, you follow the trail past small alpine tarns, with the looming presence of Cradle Mountain in the distance. I was lucky to get a short window where the iconic view of Cradle Mountain behind one of the alpine tarns was almost entirely visible. Taking what I could get, I snapped away furiously before moving on and enjoying the chilly walk to Kitchen Hut. Passing over Plateau Creek, I was soon at the junction where the Horse Track heads to Crater Peak.
Reaching Kitchen Hut, this old wooden shelter from the early days of the Overland Track is now only used in emergencies, or by day hikers to enjoy a break from the weather. The two storey structure hints at how deep the snow can get in winter, with a door on the second level just in case the lower door gets blocked. I had a quick break here, having a look around the interior that unfortunately is covered in graffiti by inconsiderate idiots. Wanting to press on and take advantage of what looked like relatively clear conditions at the summit, I continued along the path leading towards the summit track. The Overland Track departs off to the right, and I reflected for a moment about what I'd be doing in a few days time. Following the signs, I joined the summit track for the final push up to the top of Cradle Mountain. It's about a 270m vertical climb from Kitchen Hut to the top, with the first part of the climb a straightforward ascent on hardened track. Tracing the path up the mountain, I was wondering where it went once you reached the base of the dolerite columns.
Arriving at the blue sign pointing you in the right direction, it became clear now that the trail snakes around the mountain to the south west. A father and son passed me heading back down and they looked pretty pleased with what they had seen, I was hoping for the same when I reached the top. Following a series of white poles, the rest of the climb is along exposed rocks of varying size and stability, with it left up to the hiker to pick their preferred line between the poles. Initially it is fairly easy going, with larger surfaces to step along but as you round the edge of the slope, you start to move between bigger boulders that require more effort to scale. Looking up at what the lady at the Visitor Centre told me was a false summit, I had my fingers crossed the lack of cloud cover would continue. When the dolerite spires start to get closer, the tricky part of the climb begins, with a more measured approach needed to pick your way through the steeper sections.
Being 6ft 1, it was a little easier for me than most people, but in places I really had to think about my next move. While most of the time I could get away with carrying my DSLR in one had, occasionally I would have to make use of my Peak Design Camera Clip, and holster it to my pack straps. Stopping occasionally to catch my breath and enjoy the epic views looking across to the Fury River Valley, unfortunately Barn Bluff wasn't visible in the distance. There are a couple of tricky pinch points around the tallest of the jutting spires, requiring you to pull yourself up by the bootstraps. The method I found that worked for me to locate the best place to place your feet was to look for the scratch marks in the rocks where hikers crampons have etched the surface. Passing a few hikers that were being extra careful, I was soon at the false summit looking at where the trail dips down and then back up to reach the proper summit. This was a nice little scene, and the scramble back down the boulder field was just as challenging as going up it.
Looking south east over the expansive peaks of the national park, it's a great sight knowing that there is nothing there expect wilderness. The track eventually leads you to what looks like a solid wall, but after staring at it for a while, the path to the right is obvious, albeit still tricky to negotiate. Heaving my frame up the last of the difficult sections, the final push to the summit sees you hop along boulders until you reach the relatively flat summit area. There is plenty of space to find your own little rock to sit on and reflect on the journey up here, plus enjoy a snack. Initially the visibility was terrible, with views limited to what I could see looking directly down the slopes of the mountain but I was going to be a patient boy and wait. My patience paid off and while it didn't completely blow over, the clouds shifted enough that I could see all the way down to where the Overland Track passed to the west, and a little further beyond. Given the forecast and what I could see hiking up from Dove Lake, I would call that a win.
After checking out the plaque that marks the summit, I had a wander around the area to see what was what. With the cloud cover returning, I sat down and send off some messages, before starting the climb back down to Dove Lake. Normally mountain descents are not my favourite thing, as the force of your entire body weight being slammed into your legs isn't fun but given the technical nature of getting up to Cradle Mountain, it was an enjoyable experience. Being able to use my hands to lower myself down like a monkey was much more fun than a set of rocky steps, although I'd have to contend with that later on. As I had a rollicking good time getting through the larger boulders, when I reached the lower slopes, the weather started to turn for the worse. Reaching the blue sign for Cradle Mountain, I stopped to talk to some hikers heading up and the sideways drizzle wasn't good news for their hopes of clear summit views. Wishing them the best, I hurried off to reach Kitchen Hut, where I would retrieve my wind jacket from my pack to place over my regular jacket. The drizzle continued for the walk across the alpine plains but this didn't seem to bother the Crescent Honeyeater I saw, that was quite happy flitting about the bushes, I guess they're used to the bad weather up here.
Passing a stream of hikers going the other way, I was happy with my decision to get here early. Reaching Marions Lookout, there was a lot more people there than when I was last here, with the views still relatively decent considering the drizzle. Back among the crowds, the descent from Marions would involve a lot of overtaking, and plenty of polite "excuse me, coming through". While it's nice to see people out enjoying this stunning part of the world, I understand the frustrations of the visitor centre staff when you see people wearing all manner of unsuitable clothing for the conditions, with my personal highlight being a man wearing boat shoes with no socks. As I reached the lower slopes, the rain set in, so I tucked my camera away under my jacket, and only brought it out for special occasions. I had been hoping to do the Dove Lake Circuit after this but the increasingly grey skies put a dampener on those plans. Arriving at the Dove Lake Visitor Centre to finish the hike, it was still chilly, and the crowds were really high considering the conditions. Vowing to return again, there are plenty of hike here that I could easily spend a few days based at the lodge, exploring the different tracks leading up and around the mountains here.
Final Thoughts – One of the best day hikes in Australia, the Cradle Mountain Summit lived up to my expectations, and it felt really good to finally this part of Tasmania after many trips to this hiking mecca.
While the weather wasn't on my side, I was still fortunate to get some views from the summit, along with the incredible vistas I experienced on the hike up to Marions Lookout.
The scrambling was less difficult than I thought it would be but take that comment with a grain of salt given my height and hiking experience. If you're not confident with rock scrambling but think you have the fitness to reach the summit, take your time getting up to the summit and don't worry about speed or holding people up. Do however be cautious in wet and windy conditions, and remember to pack for all weather conditions.
With a great deal of variety along the way including still lakes, wildflower filled heath, alpine fields and the rocky climb to the summit, this was a thoroughly enjoyable hike.
Get out there and experience it!!!
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