South Cape Rivulet to Cockle Creek
South Coast Track
The Hike - After six memorable and challenging days on the South Coast Track, it was time for the final day into Cockle Creek to complete what was an amazing trip. Continuing the trend for the last few mornings, we were greeted with overcast conditions as we got out of our tents to start the process of breakfast, packing up and getting onto the trail. With only 13km to get through today across some of the easiest terrain of the whole track, we weren't in a hurry to get going. Donovan had booked us a transfer with Tasmanian Wilderness Experiences to pick us up from Cockle Creek at 3pm and take us back to Hobart.
I love how well Tassie is setup for hikers to come out and be able to easily organise logistics for remote walks. Talking to a few people around camp, it was going to be a full bus back to Hobart, so we were all in the same situation with regards to not being in a rush. While we enjoyed breakfast and slowly packed things away, the local Pademelons from last night joined us. Donovan carefully guarded his breakfast this time but they were interested in the human food. Considering we weren't in a hurry to get going, we ended up being ready for take-off just after 8am, so decided it was better to rest at the finish than dawdle around here for no reason. Leaving camp for the last time, the first part of the morning would be a relaxed walk along the expansive beach at South Cape Rivulet. With the temperatures being on the cooler side, this was first time I left camp wearing my jacket.
The mood was good as we walked along the edge of the creek, admiring the Kelp Gulls as we made our way to the harder sand close to the water. It's an easy start to the day and with the grey lighting, the photos weren't popping as much as when we arrived the previous afternoon. Hoping the conditions would clear, Bronwyn and I posed for Donovan's filming as we walked along the beach. After about 800m we reached the end and a really cool section of coastal cliffs (that we wouldn't be walking along). Exploring the rocks and the washed up Bull Kelp while everyone had a look around, it's always nice to do a bit of beach combing. Leaving the beach via the easily spotted exit point, we would be crossing the first of two headlands, with this one being the smallest hill of them. Walking through the coastal mallee, it was a brief time away from the beach before we were once again staring at the wilds of the Southern Ocean.
Stepping out onto the second of three beaches for the morning, it's only a short 400m walk to the end. Bronwyn had decided to leave her shoes off for the little headland section and so continued on bare foot along the beach. Not wanting to faff about to take off my boots for such a short beach walk, I kept away from the crashing waves and concentrated on photographing the moody conditions. A little different to the first beach, this one was a good reminder of Day Five thanks to the granite pebbles closer to the coastal scrub. Thanks to the low tide, we didn't have to negotiate the shifting stones that while fun, take a bit of concentration to get through without a rolled ankle. The end of the beach is where all the action is, with the dark and gothic looking cliffs providing some excellent photographic opportunities. Before that, I was enamoured with the rocky shelves poking out from the sand. Getting closer, the deep green of the plants that cover them was looking a treat as the waves poured over them before retreating.
With Bronwyn putting her shoes back on, I had some time to explore this area, and spent a good amount of time watching the water drip down the spires of green hanging off the rocks. When I was done with that, my focus turned to the waves crashing against the rocky columns at the tip of the headland. When the sun isn't shining, these kinds of dramatic scenes go a long way to providing some more interesting photos. With the others still faffing around, I decided to climb the stairs that lead you off the beach and into the undergrowth. Spotting a couple of rocks with a unique pattern, I wondered what caused the circular markings on them. Eventually I was joined by a Bronwyn and Donovan and we started the biggest climb of the day that sees you ascend about 100m to near the top of Coal Bluff. We joked that certain Liberal politicians would love this spot as we waled through thickets of ferns and the occasional muddy patch. Compared to previous days, this was a small hill, so it didn't take much effort to reach the first of the excellent lookout spots.
There are two exposed spots right on the edge of the cliffs here that provide excellent views looking back over the beach you've just walked along, together with a glimpse of the beach at South Cape Rivulet. While the beach walking had been nice, this was really the highlight of the morning. The sun was trying to peak out and the peaks of the South Cape Range in the distance were almost lit up in the morning light. Taking plenty of photos of the views looking down the cliff face, across to the beach below and the wide vistas of South Cape Bay, we all agreed this was pretty special. Heading off, there was a short walk through the coastal thicket before we were treated to an even better viewing platform. With drones not allowed in Tasmanian National Parks unless you have a hard to get permit, this is about as close you'll get to something looking like a drone shot, as you stare down the cliff face at the waves crashing below. Take care here if the weather is a bit wild or the rocks are wet because it is a long way down.
Doing some excellent modelling for Donovan's film, we stayed here for a while just admiring the views and taking photos. Eventually prying ourselves away from the cliff, we headed away from the coastal view and into some agreeable forest. Through here I was enjoying the change in scenery with our longest stretch of forest walking providing a few fungi finds, some wildflowers and a little skink on some Paperbark bark. While the coastal views had mostly disappeared as we descended down the hill, there was one open spot where we got a look at Lion Rock as it extends out into South Cape Bay. It will be a big feature later on but for now it was a nice introduction. Eventually the third and final beach section appears in your eyeline, and I could see a couple of hikers down below that I believe were the two guys we talked to at the Melaleuca Airstrip. As you reach the bottom of the hill, the forest changes to more grassy and hardy coastal scrub, indicating that the beach entry isn't too far away.
There is a small creek crossing behind the main dunes and given the salty taste of the South Cape Rivulet water, there was a group filling up here. Donovan decided that was a good idea, so awkwardly crouched down with his full Aarn pack on to refill with much cleaner water. The last beach section is up and over the dunes, after a bit of a hop to get over the creek. As we climbed over the dune, we spotted a lot of rubbish in the dunes below, not super unusual given what we had seen over the past week with hikers dragging sea debris away from the water but as we got closer it was noticeable that this wasn't regular rubbish. The reason for this was in the distance, with a small boat abandoned on the beach near Lion Rock. The occupants must have dragged all their gear up here but there was no sight of them. We had a little laugh as the South Coast Track was originally cut as a shipwreck survival track, and luckily for these people, they are near a high traffic area with only a short walk to Cockle Creek to negotiate.
Stepping out onto the beach, there was an air of finality to this stretch as we finished the last beach section of the week. There were plenty of hikers stretched out along the beach and we had a chat to some that had just done the overnight walk to South Cape Rivulet before doubling back to Cockle Creek. This beach also contained a mass of granite pebbles but just like before, there was no need to walk along them. With only 600m of beach walking to go, I was really savouring this section. With excellent views looking back at Lion Rock and the sea birds that call this island home, it was easy to slow down and appreciate the scenery. On a track where amazing scenery is around every corner, this was one of the more memorable views thanks to the framing of the island against the shore and the headland in the background. Reaching the end of the beach, there is a large set of stone steps leading up to a wooden staircase. We weren't quite ready to leave yet, so lingered on the rocks at the base of the steps.
Eventually though it was time to depart and the others joined me at the wooden staircase. Making the beach exit easier was the next stretch of walking that to me was the most iconic part of the day, the black cliffs. After a short boardwalk section, you are deposited onto the dark rocky platform as it rounds the headland. A unique surface that you only walk on here, there are cairns to guide the way, as you take in the natural beauty of this spot. I loved the contrast between the black of the exposed rock and the deep blues of the ocean, along with the worn path in the rock that has turned a light grey. We all marvelled at what a great spot this was, more so when we arrived at the end of the headland and experienced the sweeping views looking back across Sandy Cape Bay, and then straight ahead at the vastness of the Southern Ocean, where over 2,500km away is Antarctica. It was a fitting end to the coastal walking of the South Coast Track and a memorable way to say goodbye.
From the wooden steps that you use to exit the rocky platform, you head inland for the rest of the day to reach Cockle Creek. This track is also named the South Cape Bay Track, and is one of the 60 Great Short Walks that Tas Parks promotes. After this trip, I have completed 24 of the 60 walks, so it will take a few more visits to Tassie before I can say I've done them all. Taking one last look at the coast, we entered the coastal scrub that would be home for the final 8km. Being one of the great walks, I was expecting this to be on par with the inland walking we had experienced so far, just a bit easier thanks to being catered towards the day hikers. Initially the scenery was fantastic with a fern lined track running near a few creek systems. This lush scenery was lovely to photograph and while the other two were in a bit of a hurry to finish, I was happy to linger at the back to really savour the journey. One view I was really enjoying was the gnarly thickets closing in to form a tunnel of sprawling limbs that framed the track really well.
If this was what the entire 8m was going to be like, then I was going to have a great time finishing the South Coast Track. The stunning fern lined track continued for a while, with the marked improvement in the track quality very noticeable. This section felt like strolling through the backroads of the Shire, searching for mushrooms with the sound of babbling brooks for company. There are several small footbridges through here, with Donovan and I joking about the luxury of having them compared to the last week. If I'm really honest, we were super fortunate with the creek levels anyway and there was not a lack of footbridges where needed. With excellent lighting thanks to the overhead conditions, this didn't feel like a get it over with kind of section that can happen on other weeklong hikes. A creek that runs parallel with the track for a brief moment provided a nice photo opportunity that was too good to pass up. Not wanting this type of scenery to end, I was in luck as it continued for about 2.5km, although as we moved away from the various creek crossings, the Tea Tree and Banksia tunnels became the norm.
This was still enjoyable walking with the track undulating slightly, so it never felt "boring". The other two bolted into the distance through here, while I was busy photographing the wildflowers that lined the trail, along with the framing of the tunnel sections. I was passed by a young guy that I recognised from the campsite the previous night, with this being the start of seeing a lot more human activity than we had seen the previous week. Exiting the tunnel, there is a brief section of exposed walking through grassy plains before heading back into shadier vegetation. It doesn't last long before you are out in the open again for the first of a series of boardwalk sections through grassy scenery that was familiar. In hindsight, this is when I should have applied more sunscreen, a decision that would prove uncomfortable for the next leg of my Tassie trip (along with all the mozzie bites I picked up at South Cape Rivulet). With the others way off in the distance and not caring about little ol Py, I walked at my own pace, stopping to photograph Honey Smith Hill, Bare Hill and the Blowhole Valley.
I could hear a crackle of cockatoos in the distance and turned around to see a large group flying out of the forest. Having not seen any on the trip so far, it was nice to see some now. Meandering along, I passed several groups of day hikers making their way to South Cape Bay before reaching what I thought was the end of the grassy plains. It turned out to be a false forest and soon I was out in the second exposed section. Putting the turbos on, I powered along to reach the others, who were waiting on the edge of the dry sclerophyll forest that will be home for the last few kilometres into Cockle Creek. At a lush section of the forest I had to stop and change camera batteries, which while annoying so close to the end, allowed a short break where I could enjoy this lovely spot. Catching back up to the others, I could sense that Donovan was getting a bit frustrated with the end being so close but this section seemingly never ending. I believe he was in a bit of discomfort too, so I gave him some space and did my own thing through here. I was really enjoying the views looking through the trees and across to where Cockle Creek flows but the constant rocky steps could get in the bin. I think doing this as a day hike would be a much better experience, as that last couple of kilometre feeling where you just want the track to end wouldn't be there.
The quality of the scenery was still high and I was loving the thicker Eucalyptus trees that were reminiscent of excellent Jarrah that we get back in WA. Reaching the dieback station and then the walkers information shelter was a nice moment and the end was well within reach now. Bronwyn signed us all out in the registration book and we had a chuckle at the Tas Parks sign telling everyone that if they are using the John Chapman guidebook, to add a few hours to the suggested walk times. Thinking the end would be right around the corner, you walk for a further 400m before reaching the actual finishing point at Cockle Creek. One last highlight for me was walking along the boardwalk through the Paperbark trees and this capped off an excellent week long hike. The building at the finish that serves as the Tas Parks Office has received a facelift since the Google Street View car last came through, so there is space to unwind and relax in the shade. Dumping our packs here, we headed over to the Southwest National Park sign for some final photos. We had about two hours before being picked up, so enjoyed a walk to where Cockle Creek empties into the bay, with Bronwyn enjoying a swim while Donovan and I waded in the cooling waters. It was a nice time to reflect on the last week and enjoy the feeling of completing the South Coast Track.
Final Thoughts – Done and dusted. The South Coast Track was always one of those bucket list hikes that I planned on doing at some point, so it was nice to finally head out there.
I'll talk about the final day thoughts first before getting into some general rambling about the week.
While not the most interesting day of walking compared to the rest of the week, the final day is still a great experience. Three short beach sections combined with some headland exploring, and that final push into Cockle Creek provided plenty of variety. I think the amount of photos I took today really speaks for the quality of the scenery, so my advice would be to slow up and savour the experience.
As for the South Coast Track, this is one of the best weeks of hiking I've done. While I was reflecting on the hike, I kept thinking it was like the Walpole to Denmark section of the Bibbulmun Track in terms of great coastal walking and the forested section but mixed in with the Stirling Range.
If you've glanced through all the posts, you can see just how epic the scenery is, along with the variety of landscapes you walk through, and I count myself very fortunate to have walked this track. Weather wise I don't think we could have had a better set of conditions, with the only bit of back luck being no visibility on top of the Ironbounds. If that was the worst thing to happen with the weather then you're doing alright.
Finally, a big thanks to Donovan for tackling the bulk of the logistics for the trip and booking flights/transfers, and Bronwyn for the company along the way.
Get out there and experience it!
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