Swamp Oak to Murray

Start - Swamp Oak Campsite

Finish - Murray Campsite

Campsite - Deep South

Distance - 18.8km (One Way)

Vertical Climb - 461m

Time - 4-7 hours

Date Hiked - 3rd June 2018

The Hike - After a great first day of hiking between Dwellingup and Swamp Oak, today would be the first full day on the track for the trip. Despite the cold night (overnight temp was 0C at Dwellingup) we were in good spirits and raring to head out and warm the bodies up with some good old fashioned movement.

A breakfast consisting of a Clif Bar and coffee was enough as we had a bit of a lazy start packing things away and checking out the shelter we didn't see the afternoon before. Setting off a bit before 9am we were all rugged up with jackets and beanies trying to ward off the frosty morning air. The section leading out of camp is through open Jarrah forest on single track with several large specimens towering into the light mist. There is something about walking east into a winter's sunrise that I enjoy, not sure if it's to do with the warming effect on my face or the thought of setting off into the endless expanse of the unknown but I love the feeling and today was no different.

Rising up a small hill got the blood flowing some more and although the beanie stayed on, the temperature was much more bearable as we started to descend down towards Swamp Oak Rd. In our way was a recently fallen tree that added a bit of fun to the morning and soon we reached the first of the 4x4 tracks of the day. Normally I am not a fan of 4x4 hiking, especially through spindly Jarrah forest but Swamp Oak Rd is a delight to walk along thanks to a nearby creek providing enough water for a thick coverage of forest. It felt like walking through a forest you hear described in fantasy novels and as if a horse drawn carriage was just around the corner loaded heading off to the local village.

Passing another of the wooden seats that have been installed, we stopped for photos and had a small debate about whether the distance figures carved into the seat were a good thing or not (Aron was pro, I was not). The discussion also raged on about whether we were still on the Bibb as we hadn't seen a waugyl in quite a while but I assured everyone that any turn away from a 4x4 track would be well signed. A few minutes after that statement we came across the turn that takes you up another 4x4 track and onto one of the two big climbs for the day. As I said it would be well marked and we counted six waugyls in various locations so the turn would be pretty hard to miss. From the bottom it is a 120m vertical climb to the summit over the next 1.5km so not a super steep hill but a sustained climb none the less.

With full packs and a climb to tackle, things were quiet, something that was unusual for one member of our party (looking at you Jen). We all had a good chuckle that maybe we should climb more hills so we could enjoy the peace and quiet of the forest (kidding of course but not really). At this stage we were passed by another group that had stayed at Swamp Oak the night before and we all spread out over the hill going at our own pace. Towards the top of the climb the scenery changed from nice Jarrah forest to burnt She-Oak (I love the She-Oak forest) and back to scrappy Jarrah. Being the leeward side of the hill explains why this area was so much drier and sparser than what we would come across later but the trade-off was some great views looking back towards the east. At the summit we found the other group having a rest and thought that was a good idea so wandered a bit further on and found a fallen tree to take a break on. 

Everyone else found out they had mobile reception so enjoyed connecting to the outside world while we snacked. I am with Vodafone so wasn't so lucky and instead enjoyed an energy bar and posed for photos. Coming up was the descent down to the Yarragil Form access point and one of the highlights of the day for me. In stark contrast to the climb up the hill, the windward side of the hill was a lush paradise full of towering Jarrah trees, ferns, fungi and dense undergrowth. The wonderful climb down into the green valley is a bit of a steep one but that just means taking it slower and enjoying the scenery, something made easier by the seat named Venturer's View. Towards the bottom on the hill we were passed by a trail runner that would be staying at Murray that night and that sparked more conversation about what was in his small pack given he would need sleeping supplies and food.


We soon reached Yarragil Form and crossed River Rd and on towards the bridge. Unfortunately there was no water flowing when we were there but this area would come alive in the spring so maybe a return visit might be in order. Having descended into a valley, the track takes you on the second and last big climb of the day. Filled with Zamia Palms and more noticeable fire damage to the Jarrah trees, this area was slightly overgrown to the point of questioning whether or not this was still the official track. I found out after my trip that this section had not been looked at in two years so that explains the overgrown feel. I have been assured that it is now in better shape. Just to make sure the group hadn't decided to take another path or turn back to Yarragil Form I stopped off at a nice viewing spot and waited for them to catch up. Sruthy arrived first and despite feeling slightly under the weather, was enjoying the day's hiking. 

Jen and 1A1R finally showed up and we all finished the hill as a group before embarking on the long and flat section on the ridge. Filled with a mix of She-Oak and Jarrah, the walking here is much easier and you can relax a little after the previous two hills. We saw a few of the first wildflowers breaking through with some dashes of purple livening up the burnt landscape and dull colours of the fallen She-Oak needles. The track goes along long stretches of 4x4 track here but the area is not without charm given the tunnel like effect of the She-Oak's lining the track. I enjoy both walking through and photographing this effect so was enjoying this middle stretch of the day towards our eventual lunch stop. My plan had been to stop at around the 14km mark for lunch but in the glorious sunshine at the 13km mark we found a nice spot to park our cabooses and unload our heavy packs. 

On the menu for me was peanut butter tortillas and it was nice to soak in the sunshine on a log without a care in the world. I made friends with a bee that was landing on my pack but it was a one-sided friendship as it flew off and left me heartbroken. With everyone happy and contented after a break we moved on to finish the final 6km of the day. After we descended down a little bit and crossed another inoffensive metal and wooden bridge we reached the first crossing of the Murray River Fireline and the entry to the "Sanctuary of Py". I recently took over this section of the Bibbulmun as a maintenance volunteer from a friend and with Donovan calling my other section in between Possum Springs and Yourdamung the "Kingdom of Py", I thought it would be fun to give this one a name. I don't claim to have ownership of this section so it's a bit of harmless fun.


Having removed most of the Prickly Moses and overgrown bits from this first section earlier in the year with help from Aron, it was nice to just walk through from a hiker's perspective and enjoy the walk. Having spent a fair bit of time here checking on the place for the last year I knew what to expect, a bit of a hill and then some more ridge walking among the Jarrah trees. As stated in my Swamp Oak post, I love the open Jarrah forest where the landscape feels wide and you are immersed in the forest, not closed off by the undergrowth. With the others walking behind I stopped for a moment and just sat on a log listening to my music and singing along. Sruthy once again popped into view before Jen and 1A1R and we moved on to the second crossing of the Murray River Fireline.