Swamp Oak to Murray
Bibbulmun Track
Start
Swamp Oak
Time
4-7 Hours
Finish
Murray
Date Hiked
3rd June 2018
Length
18.8km
Campsite Style
Deep South
Elevation
461m
Traditional Custodians
Wiilman People
The Hike - After a great first day of hiking between Dwellingup and Swamp Oak, today would be the first full day on the track for the trip. Despite the cold night (overnight temp was 0C at Dwellingup) we were in good spirits and raring to head out and warm the bodies up with some good old fashioned movement. A breakfast consisting of a Clif Bar and coffee was enough as we had a bit of a lazy start packing things away and checking out the shelter we didn't see the afternoon before. Setting off a bit before 9am we were all rugged up with jackets and beanies trying to ward off the frosty morning air. The section leading out of camp is through open Jarrah forest on single track with several large specimens towering into the light mist.
There is something about walking east into a winter's sunrise that I enjoy, not sure if it's to do with the warming effect on my face or the thought of setting off into the endless expanse of the unknown but I love the feeling and today was no different. Rising up a small hill got the blood flowing some more and although the beanie stayed on, the temperature was much more bearable as we started to descend down towards Swamp Oak Rd. In our way was a recently fallen tree that added a bit of fun to the morning and soon we reached the first of the vehicle tracks of the day. Normally I am not a fan of vehicle track hiking, especially through spindly Jarrah forest but Swamp Oak Rd is a delight to walk along thanks to a nearby creek providing enough water for a thick coverage of forest. It felt like walking through a forest you hear described in fantasy novels and as if a horse drawn carriage was just around the corner loaded heading off to the local village. Passing another of the wooden seats that have been installed, we stopped for photos and had a small debate about whether the distance figures carved into the seat were a good thing or not (Aron was pro, I was not).
The discussion also raged on about whether we were still on the Bibb as we hadn't seen a waugyl in quite a while but I assured everyone that any turn away from a 4x4 track would be well signed. A few minutes after that statement we came across the turn that takes you up another vehicle track and onto one of the two big climbs for the day. As I said it would be well marked and we counted six waugyls in various locations so the turn would be pretty hard to miss. From the bottom it is a 120m vertical climb to the summit over the next 1.5km so not a super steep hill but a sustained climb none the less. With full packs and a climb to tackle, things were quiet, something that was unusual for one member of our party (looking at you Jen). We all had a good chuckle that maybe we should climb more hills so we could enjoy the peace and quiet of the forest (kidding of course but not really). At this stage we were passed by another group that had stayed at Swamp Oak the night before and we all spread out over the hill going at our own pace.
Towards the top of the climb the scenery changed from nice Jarrah forest to burnt She-Oak (I love the She-Oak forest) and back to scrappy Jarrah. Being the leeward side of the hill explains why this area was so much drier and sparser than what we would come across later but the trade-off was some great views looking back towards the east. At the summit we found the other group having a rest and thought that was a good idea so wandered a bit further on and found a fallen tree to take a break on. Everyone else found out they had mobile reception so enjoyed connecting to the outside world while we snacked. I am with Vodafone so wasn't so lucky and instead enjoyed an energy bar and posed for photos. Coming up was the descent down to the Yarragil Form access point and one of the highlights of the day for me. In stark contrast to the climb up the hill, the windward side of the hill was a lush paradise full of towering Jarrah trees, ferns, fungi and dense undergrowth. The wonderful climb down into the green valley is a bit of a steep one but that just means taking it slower and enjoying the scenery, something made easier by the seat named Venturer's View.
Towards the bottom on the hill we were passed by a trail runner that would be staying at Murray that night and that sparked more conversation about what was in his small pack given he would need sleeping supplies and food. We soon reached Yarragil Form and crossed River Rd and on towards the bridge. Unfortunately there was no water flowing when we were there but this area would come alive in the spring so maybe a return visit might be in order. Having descended into a valley, the track takes you on the second and last big climb of the day. Filled with Zamia Palms and more noticeable fire damage to the Jarrah trees, this area was slightly overgrown to the point of questioning whether or not this was still the official track. I found out after my trip that this section had not been looked at in two years so that explains the overgrown feel. I have been assured that it is now in better shape. Just to make sure the group hadn't decided to take another path or turn back to Yarragil Form I stopped off at a nice viewing spot and waited for them to catch up. Sruthy arrived first and despite feeling slightly under the weather, was enjoying the day's hiking.